Sights in Caribbean Coast
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Old Town
Without doubt, Cartagena's old city is its principal attraction, particularly the inner walled town, consisting of the historical districts of El Centro and San Diego. It is a real gem of colonial architecture, packed with churches, monasteries, plazas, palaces and mansions with their overhanging balconies and shady patios.
The old town is surrounded by Las Murallas, the thick walls built to protect it against enemies. Construction began towards the end of the 16th century, after the attack by Francis Drake; until that time Cartagena was almost completely unprotected. The project took two centuries to complete due to repeated damage from both storms and pirate attacks. On…
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Palacio de la Inquisición
The Palacio de la Inquisición is one of the finest buildings in the town. Although the site was the seat of the Punishment Tribunal of the Holy Office from 1610, the palace wasn't completed until 1776. It is a good example of late colonial architecture, noted particularly for its magnificent baroque stone gateway topped by the Spanish coat of arms, and the long balconies on the facade.
On the side wall, just around the corner from the entrance, you'll find a small window with a cross on top. Heretics were denounced here, and the Holy Office would then instigate proceedings. The principal 'crimes' were magic, witchcraft and blasphemy. When culprits were found guilty they …
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Quinta de San Pedro Alejandrino
This is the hacienda where Simón Bolívar spent his last days and died. The hacienda was established at the beginning of the 17th century and was engaged in cultivating and processing sugarcane. It had its own trapiche (sugarcane mill) and a destilería (distillery).
During the Bolívar era, the hacienda was owned by a Spaniard, Joaquín de Mier, a devoted supporter of Colombia's independence cause. He invited Bolívar to stay and take a rest at his home before his intended journey to Europe.
Several monuments have been built on the grounds in remembrance of Bolívar, the most imposing of which is a massive central structure called the Altar de la Patria. Just to the right…
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Convento de San Pedro Claver
This convent was founded by Jesuits in the first half of the 17th century, originally as San Ignacio de Loyola. The name was later changed in honor of Spanish-born monk Pedro Claver (1580-1654), who lived and died in the convent. Called the 'Apostle of the Blacks' or the 'Slave of the Slaves,' he spent all his life ministering to the slaves brought from Africa. He was the first person to be canonized in the New World (in 1888).
The convent is a monumental three-story building surrounding a tree-filled courtyard, and part of it is open as a museum. Exhibits include religious art and pre-Columbian ceramics. You can visit the cell where San Pedro Claver lived and died, and a…
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Iglesia de Santo Domingo
The Iglesia de Santo Domingo, built towards the end of the 16th century, is reputedly the oldest in the city. Its builders gave it a particularly wide central nave and covered it with a heavy roof, but it seems they were not too good at their calculations and the vault began to crack. Massive buttresses had to be added to the walls to support the structure and prevent it from collapsing.
The builders also had problems with the bell tower, which is distinctly crooked. However, legend has it that it was the work of a devil who knocked the tower. The interior is spacious and lofty. The legendary figure of Christ carved in wood is set in the baroque altar at the head of the r…
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Catedral
Cartagena's Catedral was begun in 1575, but in 1586, while still under construction, it was partially destroyed by the cannons of Francis Drake, and not completed until 1612. Considerable alterations were made between 1912 and 1923 by the first archbishop of Cartagena, who covered the church with stucco and painted it to look like marble. He also commissioned the dome on the tower.
Recent restoration has uncovered the lovely limestone on the building's exterior. Apart from the tower's top, the church has basically preserved its original form. It has a fortlike appearance and a simply decorated interior with three naves and semicircular archways supported on high stone col…
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Catedral
Work on the Cathedral began in 1575, but in 1586, while still under construction, it was partially destroyed by the cannons of Francis Drake, and not completed until 1612. Alterations were made between 1912 and 1923 by the first archbishop of Cartagena, who covered the church with stucco and painted it to look like marble. He commissioned the dome on the tower. Restoration work has uncovered the lovely limestone on the building’s exterior. Apart from the tower’s top, the church has basically preserved its original form. It has a fortlike appearance and a simply decorated interior with three naves and massive semicircular archways supported on high, stone columns. The main…
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Las Bóvedas
These are 23 dungeons built between 1792 and 1796 in the city walls, which are more than 15m thick in this part. These dungeons were the last major construction carried out in colonial times and were destined for military purposes.
The vaults were used by the Spaniards as storerooms for munitions and provisions. Later, during the republican era, they were turned into a jail. The dungeons are now a little museum which, unusually, has explanatory signs in English - although unless you bring your own light you won't be able to read them since it's so badly lit!
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Convento de la Popa
On a 150m-high hill, the highest point in the city, about 2km beyond Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas is this convent. Its name literally means the Convent of the Stern, after the hill’s apparent similarity to a ship’s back end, but it’s actually the Convento de Nuestra Señora de la Candelaria, founded by the Augustine fathers in 1607. Initially it was just a small wooden chapel, which was replaced by a stouter construction when the hill was fortified two centuries later, just before Pablo Morillo’s siege.
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Museo del Oro y Arqueología
The Cartagena Gold Museum is like a miniature version of Bogotá’s world-class gold museum. Though small, it offers a fascinating collection of gold and pottery of the Sinú (also known as Zenú) people, who inhabited the region of the present-day departments of Bolívar, Córdoba, Sucre and northern Antioquia before the Spanish Conquest. The detail of some pieces are exquisite and should you be heading towards Bogotá, offers just a taste of the bigger and grander museum there.
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Acuario y Museo Del Mar
The aquarium and museum are on the seashore 2km northwest of El Rodadero. The aquarium has sharks, dolphins, turtles, seals and other marine species, and a dolphin show is held when tourists come. The attached museum displays an odd variety of objects, ranging from copies of Inca ceramics to the propeller of an airplane which crashed nearby.
Transport to the aquarium is provided by boats operated from the beach in El Rodadero; tickets can be bought from the stands on the beach.
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Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas
The castillo is the greatest and strongest fortress ever built by the Spaniards in any of their colonies. The original fort was commissioned in 1630 and was quite small. Construction began in 1657 on top of the 40m-high San Lázaro hill. In 1762, an extensive enlargement was undertaken, which resulted in the entire hill being covered over with this powerful bastion. It was truly impregnable and was never taken, despite numerous attempts to storm it.
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Manga Island
While Cartagena is principally noted for its Spanish colonial architecture, other styles have also left their mark. Walk around the residential sector on Manga Island to see some interesting houses dating mainly from the late-19th to early-20th centuries - a real hotchpotch of styles. The most noticeable feature is the Islamic influence brought by immigrants from the Middle East. You can also visit Manga's Cementerio de la Cruz, noted for many ornate old graves.
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Casa de Rafael Núñez
This mansion, just outside the walls of Las Bóvedas, was the home of the former president, lawyer and poet. He wrote the words of Colombia's national anthem and was one of the authors of the constitution of 1886, which was in force (with some later changes) until 1991. The wooden mansion is now a museum featuring some of Núñez' documents and personal possessions. The chapel opposite the house, known as the Ermita del Cabrero, holds his ashes.
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Museum of Modern Art
The Museum of Modern Art is the perfect sized museum (not too huge to overwhelm), housed in a part of the 17th century former Royal Customs House. It presents temporary exhibitions from its own collection, including works by Alejandro Obregón, one of Colombia’s most remarkable painters, who was born in Cartagena. There’s also sculpture and abstract art – all well worth a look. The second floor houses temporary exhibitions.
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Catedral
This massive whitewashed cathedral claims to be Colombia’s oldest church, but work wasn’t actually completed until the end of the 18th century, and thus reflects the influences of various architectural styles. It holds the ashes of the town’s founder, Rodrigo de Bastidas (just to the left as you enter the church). Simón Bolívar was buried here in 1830, but in 1842 his remains were taken to Caracas, his birthplace.
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Monumento a la India Catalina
The Monumento a la India Catalina at the main entrance to the old town from the mainland is a tribute to the Carib Indians, the group that inhabited this land before the Spanish Conquest. The lovely bronze statue depicts Catalina, a beautiful Carib Indian woman who served as interpreter to Pedro de Heredia upon the arrival of the Spaniards. The statue was forged in 1974 by Eladio Gil, a Spanish sculptor living in Cartagena.
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Santa Marta Catedral
The massive whitewashed Catedral claims to be Colombia's oldest church, but work was not actually completed until the end of the 18th century, and thus reflects the influences of various architectural styles. It holds the ashes of the town's founder, Rodrigo de Bastidas (just to the left as you enter the church). Simón Bolívar was buried here in 1830, but in 1842 his remains were taken to Caracas, his birthplace.
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El Rodadero
The quiet resort town of El Rodadero offers sun, sand, sea and little else. Popular with Colombian tourists, the town has a wide beach lined with high-rise apartment blocks and upmarket hotels, plus a collection of restaurants, bars and discos. It gets very crowded during Colombian holiday periods, when prices can skyrocket. El Rodadero is some 5km south of Santa Marta's center and is linked by frequent bus service.
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Plaza de los Coches
Previously known as Plaza de la Yerba, the triangular Plaza de los Coches just behind Puerta del Reloj was once used as a slave market. It is lined with old balconied houses with colonial arches at ground level. The arcaded walkway, known as El Portal de los Dulces, is today lined with confectionery stands selling local sweets. The statue of the city's founder, Pedro de Heredia, is in the middle of the plaza.
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Fuerte de San Sebastián del Pastelillo
The Fuerte de San Sebastián del Pastelillo, on the western end of Manga Island, was constructed in the middle of the 16th century as one of the town's first defense posts. It's quite small and not particularly inspiring, but it's quite close to the old town - just across the bridge from Getsemaní. Today the fort is home to the Club de Pesca which has a marina where local and foreign boats anchor.
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Museo del Oro
The Gold Museum is in the fine colonial mansion known as the Casa de la Aduana (Customs House), but was getting a facelift at the time of research. It has an interesting collection of Tayrona objects, mainly pottery and gold, as well as artifacts of the Kogi and Arhuaco people. Don’t miss the impressive model of Ciudad Perdida, especially if you plan on visiting the real thing.
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Naval Museum
Opened in 1992 on the 500th anniversary of Columbus’ discovery of the New World, the Naval Museum occupies a great colonial building, once a Jesuit college. It features, for the most part, a grand collection of reconstructed cityscapes and boat models from throughout the centuries, but woefully lacks much in the way of actual artifacts (though there are some nice torpedoes).
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Iglesia de Santo Toribio de Mangrovejo
Compared with the others, this church is relatively small. It was erected between 1666 and 1732 and its ceiling is covered with Mudejar paneling. During Vernon's attack on the city, a cannon ball went through a window into the church when it was filled with worshipers, but fortunately there were no casualties. The ball is now on display in a glassed niche in the left wall.
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Museo del Oro y Arqueología
The Sinú Indians, who inhabited the Bolívar region before the Spanish Conquest, were legendary for their wealth and stockpiles of everyone's favorite precious yellow metal. The Gold Museum displays a glittering collection of their treasures and pre-colonial pottery. It's opposite the Palace of the Inquisition on one of Cartagena's most beautiful plazas.
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