For what it’s worth, Magic Tours was the only agency that answered our emails, and is generally considered to be the most professional and respectful of the environment. It’s a family-run business that works closely with the Kogi along the route (an interview and photos with a chief, known as the mamá, are not uncommon). The food is excellent, coffee is served with Starbucks-like frequency, and many of the guides are from the mountains (not Santa Marta).