Sights in Hángzhōu
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Língyǐn Temple
Hángzhōu's most famous Buddhist temple, Língyǐn Temple was built in AD 326. Due to episodes of war and calamity, it has been destroyed and restored no fewer than 16 times.
The main temple buildings are restorations of Qing-dynasty structures. Behind the Hall of the Four Heavenly Guardians stands the Great Hall and a magnificent 20m-high statue of Siddhartha Gautama (Sakyamuni), sculpted from 24 blocks of camphor wood in 1956 and based on a Tang-dynasty original. Behind the giant statue is a startling montage of 150 small figures, which charts the journey of 53 children on the road to Buddhahood. During the time of the Five Dynasties (907–60) about 3000 monks lived in…
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West Lake
The saccharine Chinese tourist brochure hyperbole extolling West Lake is almost justified in its cloying accolades. The very definition of classical beauty in China, West Lake continues to mesmerise and methodical prettification has worked a cunning magic. Pagoda-topped hills rise over willow-lined waters as boats drift slowly through a vignette of leisurely charm. With history heavily repackaged, it's not that authentic – not by a long shot – but it's still a grade-A cover version of classical China.
Originally a lagoon adjoining the Qiántáng River, the lake didn't come into existence until the 8th century, when the governor of Hángzhōu had the marshy expanse dredged.…
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Qīnghéfāng Old Street
At the south end of Zhongshan Zhonglu is this fun and fascinating bustling pedestrian street (清河坊历史文化街;Qīnghéfāng Lìshǐ Wénhuà Jiē), with makeshift puppet theatres, teahouses and curio stalls. Chomp on a chewy nánsòng dìngshèng gāo (南宋定胜糕; southern Song dingsheng cake, Y1.50), or a guǐcài jiānbing (鬼菜煎饼; Chinese burrito; Y3), pick up a hand-carved stone teapot (Y29) or a box of lóngxūtáng (龙须糖; dragon whiskers sweets; Y10 a box) and grab some ginseng or silk. It's also the home of several traditional medicine shops, including the Húqìngyú Táng Chinese Medicine Museum, which is an actual dispensary and clinic.
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Gu Hill
Connected to the northern shores of the West Lake by the Bai Causeway is Gu Hill, the largest island in the lake and the location of the Zhejiang Provincial Museum (Zhèjiāng Shěng Bówùguan), Zhongshan Park (Zhōngshān Gōngyuán) and the Louwailou Restaurant. The island's buildings and gardens were once the site of Emperor Qianlong's 18th-century holiday palace and gardens.
Also on the island is the intriguing Seal Engravers' Society (Xīlíng Yìnshè), dedicated to the ancient art of carving the name seals (chops) that serve as personal signatures. In the northwest is the lovely Quyuan Garden (Qūyuàn Fēnghé), a collection of gardens spread out over numerous islets and…
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China Tea Museum
Not far into the hills, you'll begin to see fields of tea bushes planted in undulating rows, the setting for the China Tea Museum – 3.7 hectares of land dedicated to the art, cultivation and tasting of tea. Further up are several tea-producing villages, all of which harvest China's most famous variety of green tea, lóngjǐng (dragon well), named after the spring where the pattern in the water resembles a dragon. You can enjoy one of Hángzhōu's most famous teas at the Dragon Well Tea Village (龙井问茶; Lóngjǐng Wènchá), near the first pass. Tourist bus Y3 will take you to the museum and the village.
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Six Harmonies Pagoda
Three kilometres southwest of the lake, an enormous rail-and-road bridge spans the Qiántáng River. Close by is the 60m-high octagonal Six Harmonies Pagoda, first built in AD 960. The pagoda also served as a lighthouse, and was supposed to have magical power to halt the 6.5m-high tidal bore that thunders up Qiántáng River. Behind the pagoda stretches a charming walk, through terraces dotted with sculptures, bells, shrines and inscriptions. Take bus K4 from Nanshan Lu.
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Chinese Medicine Museum
Although pretty touristy, Hángzhōu's Qinghefang Old Street (Qīnghéfāng Lìshǐ Wénhuà Jiē) houses a host of attractive buildings, some of genuine antiquity, and can make for a fun wander. There are several pungent traditional Chinese medicine shops on the side streets. One, Húqìngyú Táng ( 胡庆余堂; since 1874), is home to the Chinese Medicine Museum, housed in a fabulous wooden courtyard building.
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Seal Engravers’ Society
Connected to West Lake’s northern shores by the Bai Causeway is GushanIsland ( 孤山; Gū Shān), the lake’s largest island. You’ll find the intriguing Seal Engravers’ Society here, dedicated to the ancient art of carving the name seals (or chops) that serve as personal signatures. It’s housed in beautiful, shaded gardens on the slope of a hill. There’s an old teahouse at the top (pots of tea from Y20).
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Hángzhōu Churches
Hidden away behind sheet-metal gates, the blue-and-white Catholic Church (Tiānzhǔ Táng; 415 Zhongshan Beilu; 中山北路 415 号; English mass 6pm Sat, Chinese mass 9am Sun) is a lovely building, with an effigy of a compassionate Mary above the door. The brick Protestant Si-Cheng Church (Sìchéng Táng; 132 Jiefang Lu; 解放路 132 号 ) is more Chinese in style.
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Southern Song Dynasty Guan Kiln Museum
The Southern Song Dynasty Guan Kiln Museum was once a production site for the famed porcelain and ceramics of the Southern Song dynasty. You can visit the remains of the kiln, where there are some exhibits of ancient kiln tools and equipment. There's also a showroom of Song ceramics and explanations in English that outline the history of ceramic ware in China. You can even try your hand at making some treasures of your own for a nominal fee (around Y20-50).
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Lesser Yingzhou Island
The smaller island in the lake is Lesser Yingzhou Island where you can look over at Three Pools Mirroring the Moon (Sāntán Yìnyuè), three small towers in the water on the south side of the island; each has five holes that release shafts of candlelight on the night of the mid-autumn festival. From Lesser Yingzhou Island, you can look over to Red Carp Pond (Huāgang Guānyú), home to a few thousand red carp.
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Yue Fei Temple
Across from the entrance to the West Lake's 3km-long Su Causeway is Yue Fei Temple, bounded by a redbrick wall and dedicated to General Yue Fei (1103–41) whose tomb is here. Commander of the Song armies, Yue was executed after being deceived by Qin Hui, a treacherous court official. More than 20 years later, Song emperor Gao Zong exonerated Yue and had his corpse reburied at the present site.
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Baopu Taoist Temple
In the forested hills above West Lake, reachable by a pleasant hike, is the striking tiled-roof, yellow-walled Baopu Taoist Temple. The temple’s first hall contains a statue of Guanyin in front of a Yin and Yang diagram; an effigy of Gehong ( 葛洪 ) – who once smelted cinnabar here – resides in the next hall, behind a fabulously carved altar decorated with figures.
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Yellow Dragon Cave Park
West of the mausoleum, a path leads upwards above the lake, eventually reaching the secluded mountainside Yellow Dragon Cave Park , tucked deep into the hills and surrounded by bamboo, ponds and teahouses. At the park summit you'll see a small spring with the stone head of a dragon and a stele nearby with an inscription that reads, 'Where there are dragons, there are spirits'.
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Jingci Zen Monastery
East of the Su Causeway along the shore of West Lake, set against the hillside across the road from the Leifeng Pagoda, is the peaceful Jingci Zen Monastery; check out the vast effigy of Sakyamuni in the main hall and the magnificent 1000-arm statue of Guanyin (Buddhist goddess) in the Guanyin Hall ( 观音殿; Guānyīn Diàn).
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Léifēng Pagoda
Topped with a golden spire, the eye-catching Léifēng Pagoda can be climbed for fine views of the lake. The original pagoda, built in AD 977, collapsed in 1924. During renovations in 2001, Buddhist scriptures written on silk were discovered in the foundations, along with other treasures.
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Zhejiang Provincial Museum
Connected to West Lake’s northern shores by the Bai Causeway is GushanIsland ( 孤山; Gū Shān), the lake’s largest island and the site of the modest Zhejiang Provincial Museum, which introduces visitors to the region’s prehistory and history.
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Jìngcí Temple
The serene Chan (Zen) Jìngcí Temple was originally built in AD 954 and is now fully restored. The splendid first hall is home to the massive and foreboding Heavenly Kings and a magnificent red-and-gold case encapsulating Milefo and Weituo. The main hall – the Great Treasure Hall – contains a simply vast seated effigy of Sakyamuni. Hunt down the awesome 1000-arm Guanyin (千手观音) in the Guanyin Pavilion with her huge fan of arms. The temple's enormous bronze bell is struck 108 times for prosperity on the eve of the Lunar New Year.
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Chinese Academy of Art Gallery
On the eastern shore of West Lake, housed in the Chinese Academy of Art ( 中国美术学院; Zhōngguó Měishùxuéyuàn) is this excellent art gallery.
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Huqing Yutang Chinese Medicine Museum
The Huqing Yutang Chinese Medicine Museum is an actual dispensary and clinic. Originally established by the Qing dynasty merchant Hu Xueyan in 1874, the medicine shop and factory retain the typical style of the period.
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Baochu Pagoda
The Baochu Pagoda, or 'Precious Stone' pagoda, looks out over the northeastern shore of the West Lake. Originally built in the 9th century, its current renovation dates to 1933.
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China Silk Museum
Close to the lake, this museum has good displays of silk samples, and exhibits explain (in English) the history and processes of silk production.
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Liulang Wenying Park
Liulang Wenying Park was once an imperial garden during the Song dynasty. Nowadays, the park is famous for its willow trees and is the site of the Lunar Festival.
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Dragon Well Tea Village
You can enjoy one of Hángzhōu's most famous teas at the Dragon Well Tea Village. Tourist bus around Y3 will take you to the museum and the village.
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Mausoleum of General Yue Fei
Commander of the southern Song armies, General Yue Fei (1103–42) led a series of successful battles against Jurchen invaders from the north in the 12th century. Despite his initial successes, he was recalled to the Song court, where he was executed, along with his son, after being deceived by the treacherous prime minister Qin Hui. In 1163 Song emperor Gao Zong exonerated Yue Fei and had his corpse reburied at the present site.
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