Things to do in Shangri La (Zhōngdiàn)
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Ganden Sumtseling Gompa
About an hour's walk north of town is this 300-year-old Tibetan monastery complex with around 600 monks. Extensive rebuilding (and a 150% jump in the ticket price in the last two years alone) has robbed the monastery of some of its charm, but it remains the most important in southwest China and is definitely worth the visit. Bus 3 runs here from anywhere along Changzheng Lu (Y1). You can sometimes avoid paying by coming after 5pm.
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Artistic Space of the Sacred
Not your run-of-the-mill joint, this place - is it a bar, an inn? - is run by an artist, and it shows, from the lighting to the colour coordination. Best of all are the inspiring views from the tiered outdoor terraces. A Ming has a gallery full of paintings upstairs and will show you if you ask. He's also set up a four-bed dorm with a Buddhist shrine and a private room with one of the most romantic views in the city.
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Tiny Temple
Further south of Shangri-la, just outside of and overlooking the old town from an eyrie, is another tiny temple presided over by two exceedingly friendly monks. Walk south to the end of Changzheng Lu. Bear left, then an immediate right. Paths run up across gardens and along a hill, bypassing a pavilion.
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Noah Café
It's been around for a spell now, but Noah's has consistently good food, mostly Western but with some Chinese dishes, and good service, as well as wi-fi for Y4 an hour. Its sister establishment N's Kitchen is equally reliable and has free wi-fi.
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Cow Pub
The name itself warrants a poke-around in this place whose design scheme is dedicated to cowpokes, Tibetan or otherwise, or at least a life in Old Tibet. Subdued but welcoming, you'll find it in the old town.
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Scripture Chamber
Hidden within the old town is the Scripture Chamber , formerly a memorial hall to the Red Army's Long March. Definitely not much to see here but its one room is worth a poke around.
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Chörten
Further north of Shangri-la, atop a hill to the west of Changzheng Lu is a chörten with good views of the town.
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Guishan Park
Guishan Park is nearby and has a temple at the top with commanding views of the area.
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Tara Gallery Café & Bar
This upmarket restaurant, bar and cafe (and art gallery) is a lovely, thoughtfully designed space, and includes a plant-filled 2nd-floor terrace. The menu is a tantalising mix of Tibetan, Indian and Yúnnán dishes; the seven-course Tibetan set meal (Y80) is a feast. It's also a relaxing spot for a coffee or an evening drink.
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Silent Holy Stones
In a town full of Tibetan restaurants, this is the one the locals head to. With a real neighbourhood feel and a menu of Amdo specialities like minced yak with tsampa (the roasted barley flour that is a Tibetan staple), it's a treat. You'll need to order the whole goat in advance, otherwise try the yak meat momo or hotpot.
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Raven Bar
Owned by a Londoner, and with the comfy feel of a local boozer, this is the one place in Zhōngdiàn where you'll find English beers (along with decent coffee and proper English tea). Lounge on the sofas downstairs, or hit the pool table on the 2nd floor.
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Old Town
After checking out the monastery, everyone just wanders about the old town, specifically Square Street (Sifang Jie); from this branches a spider web of cobbled lanes and renovated buildings (some say tacky, others say cool). You'll also see white stupas everywhere. Hidden within the old town is the Scripture Chamber (古城藏经堂; Gǔchéng Cángjīng Táng), a reconstructed temple that was previously used as a memorial to the Red Army. Guīshān Park (Guīshān Gōngyuán) is also nearby and has a temple at the top with some commanding views of the area.
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Bǎijī Sì
For even better views, head to this delightfully named and little-visited temple. To get there, walk along Dawa Lu past Kevin's Trekker Inn and turn left at the big white stupa.
Just south of town and also overlooking the old town district is another monastery.
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