Restaurants in Northwest Yúnnán
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N's Kitchen
Clamber up the steep stairs for one of the best breakfasts in town, a monster burger and a cheery welcome. It's a good source of travel info too, as well as having mountain bikes for hire.
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Sakura Café
This unbelievably raucous place has gone from subdued and relaxed to utterly rè nào (hot and noisy, the way Chinese like it) in half a decade. It is actually one of several other 'Sakura Cafés' also found along this lane; perfectly located to draw in tourists, they absolutely swell with customers at night. You'll hardly hear yourself think at times, but the Korean bimbab set meal is still outrageously good.
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Lamu's House of Tibet
Lamu has been putting smiles and service before yuán for over a decade and, after a few relocations, she's finally nailed her spot in this casual pine-and-bamboo place on the north side of the old town. The upstairs is great for people-watching. It's a UN menu, but the Tibetan items are all you really need (though the Naxiburger rocks).
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Blue Papaya
One of the places many folks take the time to write about, this is among Lìjiāng's top casual-chic places. The Italian-centric food - heavy on pasta and fish - is excellent with many, many creative flourishes. The restaurant is also home to a 'cultural exchange academy', offering courses on cooking, massage, taichiand more.
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Petit Lìjiāng Bookcafé
Owners Mei and Olivier are great sources of travel information, and the food (a mix of classic Chinese and Western dishes) and atmosphere are fine (head upstairs for the best seats). The bookshop has a small but good collection of English- and French-language titles focusing on Yúnnán and elsewhere in China.
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Noah Café
It's been around for a spell now, but Noah's has consistently good food, mostly Western but with some Chinese dishes, and good service, as well as wi-fi for Y4 an hour. Its sister establishment N's Kitchen is equally reliable and has free wi-fi.
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Naku Café
Not many folks seem to wander into this casual eatery run by some very shy but very friendly staff. Local Naxi dishes outshine the foreign items: the Naxi claypot needs salt but is packed with tofu, potato, turnip, carrots, broccoli and cabbage.
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Prague Café
Heading off for the Tiger Leaping Gorge trek? You can't go wrong with the Naxi breakfast: fried goat cheese, ham and a potato pancake as big as your head will have you all set. Great staff, crowd and atmosphere.
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Cow Pub
The name itself warrants a poke-around in this place whose design scheme is dedicated to cowpokes, Tibetan or otherwise, or at least a life in Old Tibet. Subdued but welcoming, you'll find it in the old town.
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Mama Fu's
An original Lìjiāng culinary cornerstone from way back, alfresco dining here beside a tranquil stream provides one of the best people-watching opportunities in the old town. The Chinese dishes are very solid, especially the Naxi ones (try the chǎo hǎicài, a local vegetable speciality).
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Well Bistro
Laid-back and friendly, this is an oasis in a busy part of the old town and a great place to relax after a day's walking. Western breakfasts, burgers, pasta and pizza (from Y30), as well as rice and noodle dishes, and great coffee and proper booze. There's a book exchange here too and wi-fi.
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Blue Page Vegetarian Restaurant
Pretty much everything this place does is done right. Find nouveau veggie dishes, along with Indian and Chinese, all in a quiet and relaxing atmosphere.
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Tiān Hé Cāntīng
It's hard to find a neighbourhood-style restaurant in the old town, or one that doesn't also serve Western food, but this place hits the spot with a mix of Naxi dishes and Chinese staples like dumplings, hotpots and gōng bǎo jī dīng.
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Tara Gallery Café & Bar
This upmarket restaurant, bar and cafe (and art gallery) is a lovely, thoughtfully designed space, and includes a plant-filled 2nd-floor terrace. The menu is a tantalising mix of Tibetan, Indian and Yúnnán dishes; the seven-course Tibetan set meal (Y80) is a feast. It's also a relaxing spot for a coffee or an evening drink.
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Silent Holy Stones
In a town full of Tibetan restaurants, this is the one the locals head to. With a real neighbourhood feel and a menu of Amdo specialities like minced yak with tsampa (the roasted barley flour that is a Tibetan staple), it's a treat. You'll need to order the whole goat in advance, otherwise try the yak meat momo or hotpot.
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Ama Yi Naxi Snacks
The name doesn't do justice to the small but very authentic selection of Naxi cuisine on offer at this calm courtyard restaurant. Fantastic mushroom dishes, as well as zhútǒng fàn, rice that comes packed in bamboo. It's down an alley off Wuyi Jie, close to the Stone Bridge.
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