Yuantong Temple

Lonely Planet review

Yuantong temple, at the base of Luófēng Hill, is the largest Buddhist complex in Kūnmíng and a rare and superb example of Tang dynasty design. Yes, it is pretty cool to wander amid a 1200-year-old temple complex that still draws a fair number of pilgrims. The central courtyard holds a large square pond intersected by walkways and bridges, and at the centre has a Ming dynasty octagonal pavilion which houses a 3m golden Maitreya statue.

To the rear of the temple a much newer hall enshrines a statue of Sakyamuni, a gift from the king of Thailand. Two dragon sculptures here are a big attraction for pilgrims, and stories and poems about them have been carved into the temple walls.

Behind the hall is a cliff, Putuo Rock, with steps leading up and then inexplicably stopping (for some odd reason that's our favourite part of the temple). Along the way are carved scholastic inscriptions dating back to the Tang dynasty. A brick platform at the base covers two caves inhabited by dragons (it's said the temple was constructed in part to subdue the beasts). There's a wonderful vegetarian restaurant opposite the main temple entrance.

Watch out for pickpockets outside the temple. Whether photos are allowed or not depends on who's minding the place.