Hóng Dòu Yuán
An old-school Chinese eaterie, with cigarette butts on the floor, a duck-your-head stairway and plastic-film-covered tables, this is a real locals hang-out on cosmopolitan Wenlin Jie. The food is excellent and will draw you back. Try regional specialities like the táozá rǔbǐng (fried goat's cheese and Yúnnán ham) and liáng bái ròu (peppery, tangy beef). Picture menu.