Entertainment in Yúnnán
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Naxi Orchestra
One of the few things you can do in the evening in Lìjiāng is attend performances of this orchestra inside a beautiful building in the old town. Not only are all two dozen or so members Naxi, but they play a type of Taoist temple music (known as dòngjīng) that has been lost elsewhere in China. The pieces they perform are said to be faithful renditions of music from the Han, Song and Tang dynasties, and are played on original instruments. Local historian of note Xuan Ke often speaks for the group at performances.
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Artistic Space of the Sacred
Not your run-of-the-mill joint, this place - is it a bar, an inn? - is run by an artist, and it shows, from the lighting to the colour coordination. Best of all are the inspiring views from the tiered outdoor terraces. A Ming has a gallery full of paintings upstairs and will show you if you ask. He's also set up a four-bed dorm with a Buddhist shrine and a private room with one of the most romantic views in the city.
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Café de Camel
A legend started years ago by a Kūnmíng rock-and-roller, the cool atmosphere lingers on. The restaurant/coffee shop doubles as a drinking den on weekends when tables are moved to one side and a DJ plays tunes until dawn.
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A
Birdbar
An off-the-main-drag watering hole with a pool table. There are no regular opening hours - you can come here pretty much anytime of the day or night and have a good chance of finding it open.
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B
Speakeasy
A great atmosphere here: a mix of expats and locals, not too pricey but not a dive, not much of a poseur quotient. It's down the stairs under the blue sign.
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Raven Bar
Owned by a Londoner, and with the comfy feel of a local boozer, this is the one place in Zhōngdiàn where you'll find English beers (along with decent coffee and proper English tea). Lounge on the sofas downstairs, or hit the pool table on the 2nd floor.
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C
Halfway House
A locals' hang-out, but one without the 'let's order a bottle of Chivas and play dice games' silliness that can make Chinese bars an alienating, deafening and expensive experience. There's live music here every week. Just off Dongfeng Xilu, it's hard to spot.
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D
Ganesh
Foreign beers at reasonable prices! Great Indian food! Live football on the telly! Brits will love this place, but so it seems do most expats in Kūnmíng. The all-day thalis (meat or vegetarian, Y38) are a tremendous deal.
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Dongba Palace
This government run place has a less-authentic song-and-dance show.
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