Things to do in Central Yúnnán
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Flower & Bird Market
The Flower & Bird Market has long been one of the more enjoyable and relaxing strolls in the city. It's also known as lǎo jiē (old street) and comprises several downtown blocks surrounded by buildings of immense, gleaming modernity and bustle. Flowers and birds most certainly aren't the main draw here anymore, though on weekends the chirping, yawping and cawing can still be heard a block or more away.
Instead, strollers pack this surreal hawkers' ghetto and its mazy neighbourhood walk of stalls chock-full of flora and fauna (well, again, not so much of these anymore, endless curios, knick-knacks, and doo-dahs, the contents of someone's back hall on more than one occasio…
reviewed
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Spring City Golf & Lake Resort
The Spring City Golf & Lake Resort, on the northeastern shore of Lake Yangzong, is arguably China's best golf course (can't wait to get furious letters from China's East Coast on that claim). Golf media absolutely gush over some of the signature holes. It features one championship 18-hole course designed by Jack Nicklaus and another designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr, as well as a five-star resort and water-sports centre.
reviewed
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Green Lake Park
Come here to people-watch, practise taichi or just hang with the locals and stroll. The roads along the park are lined with wannabe trendy cafes, teahouses and shops. In November everyone in the city awaits the return of the local favourites, red-beaked seagulls; it's a treat watching people, er, 'flock' to the park when the first one shows up.
reviewed
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Qióngzhú Sì (Bamboo Temple)
Dating from the Tang dynasty, the temple burned down and was rebuilt in the 15th century. It was restored from 1883 to 1890, when Sichuanese sculptor Li Guangxiu fashioned 500 luóhàn (arhats or noble ones). These life-size clay figures are a sculptural tour de force - 70 incredible surfing Buddhas ride waves on mounts including blue dogs, crabs and unicorns.
The statues have been constructed with the precision of a split-second photograph - a monk about to chomp into a large peach (the face contorted almost into a scream), a figure caught turning around to emphasise a discussion point, another about to clap two cymbals together, yet another cursing a pet monster. So lif…
reviewed
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Yuántōng Temple
This temple is the largest Buddhist complex in Kūnmíng and a draw for pilgrims. It's over 1000 years old and has been refurbished many times; the latest renovations were going on at the time of writing. To the rear a hall has been added, with a statue of Sakyamuni, a gift from Thailand's king. The good vegetarian restaurant here is to the left of the temple entrance.
reviewed
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Kunming City Museum
The left-hand hall of this museum is packed with swords, spears and surprises like mini bronze ox heads excavated in the Kūnmíng area; you've got pot luck (generally none) on English captioning. The right-hand hall houses the highlight of the whole shebang, worth the cost itself - an impressive 6.6m pillar engraved with Buddhist scriptures from the Kingdom of Dali (AD 937-1253).
It's said Prime Minister Yuan Douguang of the Dali kingdom had the pillar constructed for Kūnmíng's Military Administrator Gao Mingsheng. A dinosaur exhibit inhabits the 2nd floor with the highlight, we kid you not, Yunnanosaurus robustus; this area is a bit middling, sadly underrepresenting Y…
reviewed
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Nancheng Mosque
The oldest mosque in Kūnmíng (or at least on the site where a mosque has sat the longest), the 400-year-old Nancheng Mosque can be recognised by its telltale greenish onion domes, though the lower floors essentially look like the white-tiled offices that they are!
Even worse, the once-lively strip of Muslim restaurants and shops selling skullcaps, Arabic calligraphy and pictures of Mecca nearby got its marching orders from the city government and has slowly been dispersing throughout the city. Not much is left. To get to what's left of the Muslim area from the Zhengyi Lu roundabout, walk west past Chūnchéng Jiǔlóu (Spring City Hotel) and then bear left a half-block to …
reviewed
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Bronze Drums Hall
The Bronze Drums Hall has a collection of artefacts from tomb excavations at Jìnníng (Diān Chí), Wanjiaba (Chǔxióng) and Lijiashan (near Jiāngchuān). The drums themselves date from the Warring States and Western Han periods and are superb. Of 1600 such drums known to exist in the world, China has 1400 and Yúnnán 400 itself, most unearthed at Shizhai Shān near Diān Chí. The ancient drums are brought into a modern context by their continued use among minorities such as the Yi.
reviewed
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Chongsheng Temple
Some travellers find the admission price for the Three Pagodas steep, given that you can't go inside the pagodas. However, the temple behind the pagodas, Chongsheng Temple, almost makes up for it. Laid out in the traditional Yúnnánese style there are three layers of buildings lined up with a sacred peak in the background. The temple has been restored and converted into a museum chronicling the history, construction and renovation of the pagodas.
reviewed
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TC/G Nordica
TC/G Nordica is best described as a gallery-exhibition hall-cultural centre. There's even a relaxing restaurant with Scandinavian and Chinese food. (One founder was Swedish, another Chinese - hence the mix). Do check out Nordica's website for a full slate of performances and exhibitions; most weekends something is happening (though if you wish to eat, at times on Friday or Saturday evenings reservations are required).
reviewed
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Yunnan Explorer
15 days (Kunming)
Journey deep into Yunnan Province to the spectacular Meili mountains.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$2,890 -
Yunnan Meili Trek
15 days (Kunming)
Explore the stunning landscapes and rich diversity of Yunnan and the Meili Snow Mountain range.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$2,760 -
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Minority Nationality Hall
The Minority Nationality Hall mostly consists of photos and fairly tacky shop mannequins (some with blond hair!) dressed in minority clothes, with examples of embroidery, bags and hats. It gives an idea of Yúnnán's ethnic diversity but you are better off going to Kūnmíng's Nationalities Museum.
reviewed
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Kunming to Lhasa Overland Explorer
26 days (Kunming)
An epic journey that takes us overland through the most breathtaking landscapes in all of China to the Tibetan culture of Lhasa..
Not LP reviewed
from USD$4,890 -
Yúnnán Café and Bar
Run by a friendly couple, this not too big, not too small space is a great place to wind things down at night or start things up in the morning. The Western and Chinese stick-to-your ribs breakfasts are terrific. The Tibetan breakfasts will have you set for the long bus rides to Kūnmíng and beyond.
reviewed
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Yùquánzhāi Vegetarian Restaurant
Popular with locals, monks and expats, head here for dishes that look and taste like meat but aren't. We like the Endless Buddha Force (assorted veggies and tofu), but all the dishes here are worth sampling.
reviewed
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Tibet Café
Richly decorated and set up with imposing wooden tables, this café has terrific atmosphere and a great choice of Tibetan, Western and Chinese dishes. It also consistently attracts some of the more experienced travellers in town, so is a good place to eavesdrop or just ask around about what's new.
reviewed
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Hotpot Restaurant
An absolute madhouse at peak mealtimes, this restaurant will take the very aggressive or the very brave to muscle their way though the throngs and eventually get fed. Nonetheless, with all the slick restaurant and eateries all over Kūnmíng these days, this is a breath of fresh air.
reviewed
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West Pagoda
Attached is a compound that is a popular spot for older people to drink tea, chat and thwack mah jong tiles around (if not get a shave and a haircut). This Tang pagoda can't be climbed, nor is the temple complexe open, but it is aging as gracefully as the neighbourhood gentrifies around it.
reviewed
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Salvador's
Kūnmíng today is absolutely chock-a-block with Western-style cafes. Most are perfectly fine, but there's a reason why this one is always filled. Outstanding coffee and a menu ranging from stick-to-your-ribs breakfast through more solid sustenance - even nod-worthy burritos.
reviewed
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Ma Ma Fu's 2
This branch of the legendary Lìjiāng café is right around the corner east of the Camellia Hotel (and there's a third branch now, north of Kunming Cloudland Youth Hostel). Chinese dishes are by far the best, but most people order Western fare like pizza and apple pie.
reviewed
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Wei's Pizzeria
The granddaddy of Kūnmíng's Western-style cafes, down an alley off Tuodong Lu, Wei's has been a sanctuary for many a traveller for good reason: capacious interiors warmed by a wood-fired pizza oven, frosted beer steins, and outstanding food (Western and Chinese).
reviewed
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Brothers Jiang
A local fave, this simple place has such good across-the-bridge noodles that there are now several branches throughout the city, most of which are filled to capacity at mealtimes. Pay upfront first at the cash register and make sure you get the instructions on the eating process!
reviewed
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Yunnan Cycle and Tiger Leaping Gorge
14 days (Kunming)
An in-depth exploration of Yunnan's stunning natural beauty by bike.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$2,690
