Things to do in Xīnjiāng
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Abakh Hoja Maziri
On the northeastern outskirts of town is the Abakh Hoja Maziri, covered in splendidly mismatched glazed tile and best known among Uighurs as the resting place of Abakh Hoja, one of Kashgar's more popular rulers. Purportedly among others interred is Ikparhan, his granddaughter. Known as Xiang Fei ('Fragrant Concubine'), she led the Uighurs in revolt, was defeated and ended up Emperor Qianlong's concubine.
reviewed
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John's Cafe
In the courtyard of Sèmǎn Bīnguǎn, this is a popular hang-out, offering both Western (pricey) and Chinese (cheaper) dishes. There's another branch in the Chini Bagh Hotel.
reviewed
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Turpan Museum
Touted as the 'second-largest museum in Xīnjiāng' (the first is in Ürümqi), the museum houses a bountiful collection of relics found at archaeological sites in the Turpan Basin, as well as a hall of dinosaur fossils. Pop in here before signing up for a tour; the photos of nearby sites might help you decide what you'd like to visit.
reviewed
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Old Town
Sprawling on both sides of Jiefang Lu are roads full of Uighur shops and narrow alleys lined with adobe houses right out of an early-20th-century picture book. Houses range in age from 50 to 500 years old and the lanes twist haphazardly through neighbourhoods where Kashgaris have lived and worked for centuries. It's a great place for strolling, peeking through gates, chatting up the locals and admiring the craftsmen as they create their wares.
The Chinese government has shown little affection for the old town, however, and has spent the past two decades knocking it down, block by block. During our short stay we witnessed dozens of old homes bulldozed.
The old neighbourhoods…
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Marco's Dream Cafe
This Malaysian-run restaurant serves a nice range of Western dishes including salads, shepherd's pie and pepper steak. A roast dinner is prepared on Sunday. The friendly owners speak English and can provide travel advice.
reviewed
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Livestock Market
No visit to Kashgar is complete without a trip to the Livestock Bazaar and since it only occurs once a week (on Sunday) you'll need to plan accordingly. The day begins with Uighur farmers and herders trekking into the city from the nearby village. By lunchtime just about every sellable sheep, camel, horse, cow and donkey within 50km has been squeezed through the bazaar gates. Trading is swift and boisterous between the swarthy old traders; animals are carefully inspected and haggling is done with finger motions. Happy buyers then stuff their sheep in the back of a taxi or truck and lurch away. It's dusty, smelly, crowded, disorientating and wonderful all at once. The big…
reviewed
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Karakorum Café
Smart-looking cafe serving Western-style breakfasts, salads, sandwiches, desserts and coffee. The warmed banana nut muffins are outstanding. Another attraction is the bathroom, possibly the best in all of Xīnjiāng.
reviewed
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Abakh Hoja Tomb
On the northeastern outskirts of town is the Abakh Hoja Tomb, covered in splendidly mismatched glazed tiles and best known among Uighurs as the resting place of Abakh Hoja, one of Kashgar's more popular rulers. Purportedly among others interred is Ikparhan, his granddaughter. Known as Xiang Fei (Fragrant Concubine), she led the Uighurs in revolt, was defeated and ended up Emperor Qianlong's concubine. Take bus 20 from the main square (Renmin Guangchang) heading east until the last stop. A taxi is Y10.
reviewed
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Xīnjiāng Autonomous Region Museum
The massive Xīnjiāng Autonomous Region Museum, with 10 halls, is a must for Silk Road aficionados. The highlight is the locally famous 'Loulan Beauty' of Indo-European ancestry, one of the desert-mummified bodies that became a Uighur independence symbol in the 1990s. Other exhibits include Buddhist frescoes from the Kizil Thousand Buddha Caves and an introduction to all of the province's minorities. From the Hongshan intersection, take bus 7 for four stops and ask to get off at the museum (bówùguǎn).
reviewed
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Sunday Market
A Uighur primer: 'Boish-boish!' means 'Coming through!' You'd best hip yourself to this phrase, or risk being ploughed over by a push cart at the Sunday Market, which, despite its name, is open every day. Step carefully through the jam-packed entrance and allow your five senses guide you through the market; the pungent smell of cumin, the sight of scorpions in a jar, the sound of muqam from tinny radios, the taste of hot samsas and the feel of soft sheepskin caps are delightful, and overwhelming. A section on the northern side of the market contains everything of interest to foreign visitors, including the spice market, musical instruments, fur caps, kitschy souvenirs and…
reviewed
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Id Kah Mosque
The yellow-tiled Id Kah Mosque, which dates from 1442, is the heart of the city − and not just geographically. Enormous, its courtyard and gardens can hold 20,000 people during the annual Qurban Baiyram celebrations.
Non-Muslims may enter, but Fridays are usually no-go. Dress modestly, including a headscarf for women. Take off your shoes if entering carpeted areas and be discreet when taking photos.
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Night Market
The night market opposite the Id Kah Mosque (in the alleys east of Jiefang Beilu) is another good place to sample local fare. Vendors sell chickpeas, kebabs, breads, boiled goat heads and tasty desserts.
reviewed
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Karakoram Exploratory with Greg Mortimer
33 days (Kashgar)
Trek remote and unexplored terrain in the heart of the Karakoram mountain range..
Not LP reviewed
from USD$8,890 -
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Kraman
This casual but spiffy (and spacious) place is among the top choice for locals looking for that special night out. The speciality is polo, or rice pilaf (zhuāfàn), accompanied with pickled salad, yoghurt and fresh fruit. Two can eat well for around Y30.
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Wuyi night market
The animated night markets with shish kebabs and handmade noodles are also worth a gander. The most thriving by far is the Wuyi night market; bus 902 runs nearby between the train station and Xidaqiao intersection (tell the driver 'Wǔyī yèshì').
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Fubar
Fubar is run by two expats, an Irishman and a Japanese-American; both are happy to pull a pint for bedraggled Silk Road travellers. The menu consists of classic pub grub, with tasty pizzas, burgers and frothy glasses of imported beer (Y35 to Y50). Young expat teachers and volunteers congregate here, making this a good place to get information on activities around Ürümqi.
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Vine Coffeehouse
Run by the friendly Arlette from Curaçao, this fine cafe brings you savoury West Indian cuisine in a Caribbean atmosphere. Dishes are flavourful and the chocolate cake is divine, but portions are a tad small. It's down a side street on the left.
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Carrefour
In Erdaoqiao Market and near Silver Birches International Youth Hostel are Carrefour centres - great for fresh fruit; both have cafeterias for tasty freshly-made (and cheap) food.
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Erdaoqiao Market
This former Uighur market is no better than a Chinese-run tourist trap these days, but the streets to the north are still the centre of Ürümqi's Uighur community.
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Chinese fast-food stalls
Stalls here serve oily but cheap lunches in an alley off Renmin Xilu. This is a good option for vegetarians; just point and pay. Go at noon when the food is hot.
reviewed
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Intizar
A jam-packed Kashgar favourite, the classic dish here is tohu gangpan (jīròu mífàn), spicy chicken and potatoes with rice.
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Hóngshān Park
More of an amusement park, with better views than People's Park. Also has north and south entrances.
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Indy's Café
South a block or so off Renmin Xilu, this is a real haven for genuine coffee and tea with tastefully appointed interiors. Internet access is available.
reviewed
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Kashgar Regional Museum
This museum is on the eastern edge of Kashgar. Despite half-hearted attempts to liven up the exhibits here, most travellers come away underwhelmed.
reviewed
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People's Park
A green oasis. Has north and south entrances.
reviewed