Restaurants in Xīnjiāng
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A
John's Cafe
In the courtyard of Sèmǎn Bīnguǎn, this is a popular hang-out, offering both Western (pricey) and Chinese (cheaper) dishes. There's another branch in the Chini Bagh Hotel.
reviewed
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Night Market
The night market opposite the Id Kah Mosque (in the alleys east of Jiefang Beilu) is another good place to sample local fare. Vendors sell chickpeas, kebabs, breads, boiled goat heads and tasty desserts.
reviewed
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Kraman
This casual but spiffy (and spacious) place is among the top choice for locals looking for that special night out. The speciality is polo, or rice pilaf (zhuāfàn), accompanied with pickled salad, yoghurt and fresh fruit. Two can eat well for around Y30.
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Wuyi night market
The animated night markets with shish kebabs and handmade noodles are also worth a gander. The most thriving by far is the Wuyi night market; bus 902 runs nearby between the train station and Xidaqiao intersection (tell the driver 'Wǔyī yèshì').
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Fubar
Fubar is run by two expats, an Irishman and a Japanese-American; both are happy to pull a pint for bedraggled Silk Road travellers. The menu consists of classic pub grub, with tasty pizzas, burgers and frothy glasses of imported beer (Y35 to Y50). Young expat teachers and volunteers congregate here, making this a good place to get information on activities around Ürümqi.
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Vine Coffeehouse
Run by the friendly Arlette from Curaçao, this fine cafe brings you savoury West Indian cuisine in a Caribbean atmosphere. Dishes are flavourful and the chocolate cake is divine, but portions are a tad small. It's down a side street on the left.
reviewed
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Carrefour
In Erdaoqiao Market and near Silver Birches International Youth Hostel are Carrefour centres - great for fresh fruit; both have cafeterias for tasty freshly-made (and cheap) food.
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Chinese fast-food stalls
Stalls here serve oily but cheap lunches in an alley off Renmin Xilu. This is a good option for vegetarians; just point and pay. Go at noon when the food is hot.
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Intizar
A jam-packed Kashgar favourite, the classic dish here is tohu gangpan (jīròu mífàn), spicy chicken and potatoes with rice.
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Indy's Café
South a block or so off Renmin Xilu, this is a real haven for genuine coffee and tea with tastefully appointed interiors. Internet access is available.
reviewed
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Wúshàng Vegetarian Restaurant
This vegetarian Chinese restaurant has a popular local following. Try the sautéed broccoli (xī lán huā) or tofu noodles (hóngyóu dòǔfupí). From the China Southern Airlines office walk north for two minutes and make a right turn after the Outdoor Gear shop down a little alley; pass a gate and look for the orange sign on the right.
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Uighur Night Market
On the street south of the square; a good place to grab a kebab.
reviewed
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Texas Cafe
This cowboy-themed place serves great Tex-Mex treats including nachos, fajitas, burritos and steaks. It's located on a little alley known locally as Grape St (Pútáo Chángláng; 葡萄长廊). The owner is a native Texan, so you know it's authentic.
reviewed
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Night Market
Specialising in grilled fish, fresh yoghurt and kvas (a yeast brew popular in Russia), this night market is located near the river and makes for very atmospheric dining. To find it, walk south on Youyifeng Lu and keep going until the street dead ends. It's on the right. A second night market is in the alley opposite the People's Hospital (人民医院; Rénmín Yīyuàn), between Youyifeng Lu and Kanasi Lu.
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May Flower
From the delicious Uighur cuisine to the pleasant faux-courtyard setting, May Flower is a feast for the senses. Try the speciality, polo (rice pilaf; zhuāfàn), along with a few sticks of shish kebab and a glass of pomegranate juice, then sit back and enjoy the traditional live music (8pm).
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Marco's Dream Cafe
This Malaysian-run restaurant serves a nice range of Western dishes including salads, shepherd's pie and pepper steak. A roast dinner is prepared on Sunday. The friendly owners speak English and can provide travel advice.
reviewed
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Karakorum Café
Smart-looking cafe serving Western-style breakfasts, salads, sandwiches, desserts and coffee. The warmed banana nut muffins are outstanding. Another attraction is the bathroom, possibly the best in all of Xīnjiāng.
reviewed
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John's Information Café
This place has a quiet location in the backyard of the Tǔlǔfān Bīnguǎn. Western and Chinese meals are offered, but there is a fair amount of crossover – the pasta we ordered was filled with Chinese spices, peppers and chillies. The ice-cream sundae was a treat in Tupan's blistering heat. The name is somewhat misleading as there is little in the way of traveller information.
reviewed
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Gallery Café
This American and Canadian cafe serves pizzas, drinks and desserts. Grab a seat by the window and watch life pass by on the alley, or head upstairs to relax on the sofas in an artsy setting. To find it, walk down Jiefang Beilu for 100m (from Renmin Xilu) and turn right at the first alley, just past the Nuran Restaurant. The cafe is a few steps down on the right.
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Aroma
A Maltese chef who somehow washed up in Ürümqi runs this delectable restaurant. Pizzas, pastas, risotto and steaks are on the menu – everything is made to perfection. It's opposite the Laiyuan Hotel.
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Altun Orda
A sumptuously designed restaurant, famous for its roasted mutton (Y55). Other tasty dishes include ghoush nan (meat pie) and mirizlig manta (pastry with raisins and walnuts).
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Fubar
Grab a beer here and relax on the roof garden in the evening (well, Xīnjiāng time) after a long, sweaty day. Like its flagship in Ürümqi, this watering hole serves imported alcohol and authentic Western food.
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