Things to do in Kashgar
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Abakh Hoja Maziri
On the northeastern outskirts of town is the Abakh Hoja Maziri, covered in splendidly mismatched glazed tile and best known among Uighurs as the resting place of Abakh Hoja, one of Kashgar's more popular rulers. Purportedly among others interred is Ikparhan, his granddaughter. Known as Xiang Fei ('Fragrant Concubine'), she led the Uighurs in revolt, was defeated and ended up Emperor Qianlong's concubine.
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John's Cafe
In the courtyard of Sèmǎn Bīnguǎn, this is a popular hang-out, offering both Western (pricey) and Chinese (cheaper) dishes. There's another branch in the Chini Bagh Hotel.
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Old Town
Sprawling on both sides of Jiefang Lu are roads full of Uighur shops and narrow alleys lined with adobe houses right out of an early-20th-century picture book. Houses range in age from 50 to 500 years old and the lanes twist haphazardly through neighbourhoods where Kashgaris have lived and worked for centuries. It's a great place for strolling, peeking through gates, chatting up the locals and admiring the craftsmen as they create their wares.
The Chinese government has shown little affection for the old town, however, and has spent the past two decades knocking it down, block by block. During our short stay we witnessed dozens of old homes bulldozed.
The old neighbourhoods…
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Livestock Market
No visit to Kashgar is complete without a trip to the Livestock Bazaar and since it only occurs once a week (on Sunday) you'll need to plan accordingly. The day begins with Uighur farmers and herders trekking into the city from the nearby village. By lunchtime just about every sellable sheep, camel, horse, cow and donkey within 50km has been squeezed through the bazaar gates. Trading is swift and boisterous between the swarthy old traders; animals are carefully inspected and haggling is done with finger motions. Happy buyers then stuff their sheep in the back of a taxi or truck and lurch away. It's dusty, smelly, crowded, disorientating and wonderful all at once. The big …
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Abakh Hoja Tomb
On the northeastern outskirts of town is the Abakh Hoja Tomb, covered in splendidly mismatched glazed tiles and best known among Uighurs as the resting place of Abakh Hoja, one of Kashgar's more popular rulers. Purportedly among others interred is Ikparhan, his granddaughter. Known as Xiang Fei (Fragrant Concubine), she led the Uighurs in revolt, was defeated and ended up Emperor Qianlong's concubine. Take bus 20 from the main square (Renmin Guangchang) heading east until the last stop. A taxi is Y10.
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Sunday Market
A Uighur primer: 'Boish-boish!' means 'Coming through!' You'd best hip yourself to this phrase, or risk being ploughed over by a push cart at the Sunday Market, which, despite its name, is open every day. Step carefully through the jam-packed entrance and allow your five senses guide you through the market; the pungent smell of cumin, the sight of scorpions in a jar, the sound of muqam from tinny radios, the taste of hot samsas and the feel of soft sheepskin caps are delightful, and overwhelming. A section on the northern side of the market contains everything of interest to foreign visitors, including the spice market, musical instruments, fur caps, kitschy souvenirs and…
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Id Kah Mosque
The yellow-tiled Id Kah Mosque, which dates from 1442, is the heart of the city − and not just geographically. Enormous, its courtyard and gardens can hold 20,000 people during the annual Qurban Baiyram celebrations.
Non-Muslims may enter, but Fridays are usually no-go. Dress modestly, including a headscarf for women. Take off your shoes if entering carpeted areas and be discreet when taking photos.
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Night Market
The night market opposite the Id Kah Mosque (in the alleys east of Jiefang Beilu) is another good place to sample local fare. Vendors sell chickpeas, kebabs, breads, boiled goat heads and tasty desserts.
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Karakoram Exploratory with Tim Macartney -Snape
33 days (Kashgar)
Trek remote and unexplored terrain in the heart of the Karakoram mountain range..
Not LP reviewed
from USD$8,290 -
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Chinese fast-food stalls
Stalls here serve oily but cheap lunches in an alley off Renmin Xilu. This is a good option for vegetarians; just point and pay. Go at noon when the food is hot.
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Intizar
A jam-packed Kashgar favourite, the classic dish here is tohu gangpan (jīròu mífàn), spicy chicken and potatoes with rice.
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Indy's Café
South a block or so off Renmin Xilu, this is a real haven for genuine coffee and tea with tastefully appointed interiors. Internet access is available.
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Kashgar Regional Museum
This museum is on the eastern edge of Kashgar. Despite half-hearted attempts to liven up the exhibits here, most travellers come away underwhelmed.
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Uighur Musical Instrument Factory
You'll find long-necked stringed instruments running the gamut from souvenirs to collectors' items. If any traditional performances are on, owner Mohammed will know where to find them. This family-run place is on the street north of the post office.
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Sunday Market
Most carpet dealers display their wares at the Sunday Market pavilion. The rugs here are made of everything from silk to synthetics. The brightly coloured felt shyrdakhs from Kyrgyzstan are a good buy; don't pay more than Y450 for a large one. The best regional carpets were once made in Hotan, but these days the designs are modern and finding traditional designs can be difficult. Also, some carpets are actually manufactured in the factories in Tiānjīn. Be careful when you shop.
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Shipton's Arch (Tushuk Tash)
This natural rock arch is reputedly the tallest on earth, an incredible 1200m high. The first Westerner to describe it was British mountaineer Eric Shipton during his visit to the region in 1947. Successive expeditions attempted to find it without success until a team from National Geographic rediscovered the arch in 2000. The arch, located 80km northwest of Kashgar, receives few visitors. Kashgar-based tour operators can organise day or overnight trips. The journey involves one hour over paved highway, one hour over a rough 4WD-only track and then 30 minutes of steep climbing. The ascent to the arch involves climbing up ladders to an elevation of 2800m; bring sturdy shoe…
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Karakorum Café
Smart-looking cafe serving Western-style breakfasts, salads, sandwiches, desserts and coffee. The warmed banana nut muffins are outstanding. Another attraction is the bathroom, possibly the best in all of Xīnjiāng.
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Hotan Carpet Shop
Reliable carpet dealer Abdullah was born into a family of carpet weavers and knows his stuff. His shop is on the lane between the Eden Hotel and the Id Kah Mosque.
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Ha Noi Ruins & Mor Pagoda
At the end of a 45km drive northeast of town are the Ha Noi Ruins, a Tang-dynasty town built in the 7th century and abandoned in the 12th century. Little remains beside a solid pyramid-like structure and the huge Mor Pagoda (莫尔佛塔; Mù'ěr Fótǎ).
Flag down any taxi in town. A round trip, including waiting time, is Y100 to Y150.
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Gallery Café
This American and Canadian cafe serves pizzas, drinks and desserts. Grab a seat by the window and watch life pass by on the alley, or head upstairs to relax on the sofas in an artsy setting. To find it, walk down Jiefang Beilu for 100m (from Renmin Xilu) and turn right at the first alley, just past the Nuran Restaurant. The cafe is a few steps down on the right.
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Altun Orda
A sumptuously designed restaurant, famous for its roasted mutton (Y55). Other tasty dishes include ghoush nan (meat pie) and mirizlig manta (pastry with raisins and walnuts).
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Fubar
Grab a beer here and relax on the roof garden in the evening (well, Xīnjiāng time) after a long, sweaty day. Like its flagship in Ürümqi, this watering hole serves imported alcohol and authentic Western food.
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