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Tengye Ling
The obscure and rarely-visited Tengye Ling chapel is a Nyingmapa-sect temple dedicated to the red-faced deity Tseumar, as well as Pehar (a protector linked to Samye) and Tamdrin (Hayagriva). The crates of baijiu (rice wine) stacked in the corner are there to refill the cup in Tseumar's hand; the chapel smells like a distillery. Look for the wonderful old photo of the Dalai Lama's pet elephant, stabled in the Lukhang behind the Potala.
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The Jokhang
Also known in Tibetan as the Tsuglhakhang, The Jokhang is the most revered religious structure in Tibet. Thick with the smell of yak butter, echoing with the murmur of mantras and bustling with awed pilgrims, the Jokhang is an unrivalled Tibetan experience. Don't miss it. The chapels can be very busy, with long lines of pilgrims, so try to view the most popular ones just after the temple opens or just before it closes around noon.
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The Potala
The Potala is one of the great wonders of world architecture. As has been the case with centuries of pilgrims before you, the first sight of the fortress-like structure will be a magical moment that you will remember for a long time. It's hard to peel your eyes away from the place.
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Throne Room of the White Palace
As you arrive on the roof of the White Palace, head right for the private quarters of the 13th and 14th Dalai Lamas. The first room you come to is the Throne Room of the White Palace , where the Dalai Lamas would receive official guests. The large picture on the left of the throne is of the 13th Dalai Lama; the matching photo of the present Dalai Lama has been removed.
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Tibet Museum
The grand-looking new Tibet Museum , in the west of town just opposite the Norbulingka, isn't too bad as long as you can filter out the blatant propaganda. The adult ticket includes a useful audio tour (student ticket-holders pay an extra around Y10 for this) but the commentary suffers from terrible Americanised pronunciation (Da- lai La- maaarr! ).
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tomb of the Seventh Dalai Lama
Also in the northwest corner is the Lhama Lhakhang and the golden tomb of the Seventh Dalai Lama, constructed in 1757 and encased in half a tonne of gold. To the right stands a statue of the seventh Dalai Lama, Kalsang Gyatso.
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Tsome Ling
Tsome Ling is the most interesting of the three. One of the four ling (royal) temples of Lhasa (along with Kunde Ling and Tengye Ling), this small site consists of two temples. To the east of the residential courtyard is the Karpo Potrang (White Palace), built in 1777, and to the west is the Marpo Potrang (Red Palace), built at the beginning of the 19th century. Both buildings have fine murals and are well frequented by pilgrims.
