Things to do in Gyantse
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Rabse Nunnery
Hidden behind the hill that runs between the monastery and the dzong is Rabse Nunnery, a delightful place decorated with prayer flags, chörtens and mani lhakhangs. The 'correct' way to visit is along the clockwise pilgrim trail that goes around the back of the Pelkor Chöde Monastery. To start, follow the road up beside the monastery and then swing right onto the dirt kora path.
Bring a compass as the way back takes you through a maze of streets in the old town (but what views of the fort in the distance!) Bring water and lunch too as once you get out to this splendid open area you're going to want to continue to Riche Ganden Retreat. A round trip from central Gyantse to…
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Pelkhor Chöde Monastery
The high red-walled compound of this monastery, founded in 1418, once encircled 15 monasteries from three different orders of Tibetan Buddhism. The surviving assembly hall (straight ahead as you enter the compound) is worth a lingering visit for the fine murals, statues and butter-lamp-lit atmosphere. Just beside the assembly hall is the Gyantse Kumbum.
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Gyantse Kumbum
Commissioned by a Gyantse prince in 1427, the Gyantse Kumbum is the town's foremost attraction. The 35m-high chörten, with its white layers trimmed with decorative stripes and its crown-like golden dome, is awe-inspiring. But the inside is no less impressive, and in what seems an endless series of tiny chapels you'll find painting after exquisite painting (kumbum means '100,000 images').
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Gyantse Dzong
Gyantse Dzong towers above Gyantse on a finlike outcrop, and has outstanding views of the Pelkhor Chöde Monastery and surrounding valley. The fort was taken by the British in 1904 during their invasion of Tibet. Entry is via the gate north of the main intersection, or drive up from the back side.
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Restaurant of Zhuang Yuan
The owners of the Zhuang Yuan know how to promote themselves, and you'd likely find yourself stepping in for a look even without our recommendation. The Chinese dishes are tasty and while the prices are not cheap, portions are large, although single travellers will spend much more here than elsewhere for a complete meal. Menu in English.
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Naychung Café
Newly opened at the time of writing, the Naychung serves the usual traveller-friendly Nepalese, Tibetan, Chinese and Western fare. The food is a little better than average and the friendly, competent staff and the bistro atmosphere make this a good choice for a relaxing meal at the beginning or end of the day. Menu in English.
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Market
For self-catering there's a Market directly opposite the Restaurant of Zhuang Yuan selling veggies and meat, including roasted chicken (great to take for lunch on a long hike).
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Yak Restaurant
The Yak offers backpacker treats such as French toast (Y15), pizza, yak burgers, sizzlers (dishes served on a hot, sizzling plate) and Western breakfasts. The owner prides herself on her French cuisine, so have a go at the yak-liver paté or yak bourguignon.
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Ganden Lhakhang
A new and easily overlooked Ganden Lhakhang chapel to the left of the Pelkor kumbum is worth a quick look for the largest Tsongkhapa statue in Tibet.
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Dorjeling Lhakhang
To the left of the main Pelkor chapel is the Dorjeling Lhakhang, with a four-headed Nampa Namse (Vairocana) and the other four Dhyani (or Wisdom) Buddhas.
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Tashi Restaurant
This Nepali-run place (a branch of Tashi in Shigatse) whips up tasty and filling Indian fare. It also has the usual range of Western breakfasts, Italian and Chinese food. The decor is Tibetan but the Indian movies and Nepali music give it a subcontinental vibe.
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Gyantse Kitchen
This local favourite serves Western, Tibetan and Indian food, plus unique fusion dishes such as yak pizza. The friendly owner, who may join you for a drink, donates a portion of his income to support poor families in Gyantse.
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