Things to do in Tiānjīn
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Gǒubùlǐ
Located between Changchun Dao and Binjiang Dao, this is the king of dumpling shops with a century-old history. The house speciality is bāozi (steamed dough bun), filled with high-grade pork, spices and gravy. There are numerous branches around town.
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Monastery of Deep Compassion
Tiānjīn's most important Buddhist temple is noted for its Shìjiā Bǎo Hall (Shìjiā Bǎodiàn) and the subsequent large hall where a huge and golden multi-armed statue of Guanyin awaits, her eyes following you around the hall. The road leading up to the temple is an extraordinary market of religious paraphernalia, from prayer mats to books, Buddhist rosaries, talismans, statues and incense.
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Little Sheep
Perfect for expelling the miserable cold of a Tiānjīn winter and bringing colour to your cheeks, herd around a steaming Sìchuān or Mongolian hotpot and order up hearty plates of lamb (羊肉片; yángròupiàn), slabs of chilly bean curd (豆腐; dòufu), crispy clumps of bean shoots (豆苗; dòumiáo), Chinese cabbage (白菜; báicài) and lashings of beer. Four branches in town.
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Other Concession-Era Buildings
Across the way from the Hong Kong & Shanghai Bank Building, on the corner, is the old address of the monumental Sino-French Industrial and Commercial Bank (Zhōngfǎ Gōngshāng Yínháng), dating from 1932. The former Tientsin (Tianjin) Post Office can be found across the way, while around the corner on Chengde Dao is the former French Municipal Administration Council Building (built in 1924), now a library.
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Ancient Culture Street
Recently expanded, spruced up and its stallholders housed inside reconstructed, faux ye olde Tiānjīn buildings, Ancient Culture Street is stuffed with vendors flogging Chinese calligraphy, paintings, tea sets, paper cuts, clay figurines and chops. It's now a full-on commercial tourist bonanza with fake hútòng styling and goods from all over China.
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Hong Kong & Shanghai Bank Building
The former Hong Kong & Shanghai Bank Building, a pompous creation, now houses the Bank of China, opposite the old address of the Sino-Russian Bank (Huáè Dàoshèng Yínháng) dating from 1895. Next door to No 82 is the former Yokohama Specie Bank Ltd (Héngbīn Zhèngjīn Yínháng) dating from 1926 and now also a Bank of China.
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Wǔdàdào
The area of Wǔdàdào is rich in European-style villas and the pebble-dash former residences of the well-to-do of the early 20th century. Consisting of five roads in the south of the city – Machang Dao, Changde Dao, Munan Dao, Dali Dao and Chengdu Dao – the streetscapes are European, lined with charming houses dating from the 1930s, some art deco. Hop on a clippity-clop horse and carriage for Y30 tours or jump on an electric buggy (Y20 per person).
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Tianhou Temple
On the western side of Gǔwénhuà Jiē is the fascinating Tianhou Temple. Tianhou (Heaven Queen), goddess of the sea, is also known as Mazu and Niangniang. The main hall is the Niangniang Palace, with its effigy of Tianhou in a glass case, flanked by ferocious-looking weapons and attendant monsters.
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Antique Market
Vendors sprawl in every direction along the hútòng (narrow alleyways) of the Antique Market. Sift through its stamps, silverware, porcelain, clocks, Mao iconography and Cultural Revolution memorabilia. The market is best on Sundays, but die-hard vendors set up shop during the week.
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Drum Tower
At the Old Town's centre rises the restored Drum Tower. Decorated with páilou (decorative archways), the pedestrianised shopping street north of the Drum Tower is excellent for calligraphy brushes, snuff bottles, fans, silk ceramics, jade, taichi swords, chops and jewellery.
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Upper Deck
Loud, brash and popular with the American expat crowd hungry for burgers and draught píjiǔ, this hospitable sports bar runs enthusiastically to table-football, a kiddies' play area, pool, library, good Sunday brunches, jam nights and live blues, jazz and rock.
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Memorial Hall
Former Chinese premier Zhou Enlai grew up in Shàoxīng, Zhèjiāng province, but attended school in Tiānjīn, so his classroom desk and schoolbooks are enshrined at this memorial hall next to Shuishang Park (Shuǐshàng Gōngyuán).
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Mosque
Chinese in style, this large mosque is an active place of worship. Not officially open to the public unless you're Muslim, you may not be allowed in (although ensure you're suitably attired). The area surrounding the mosque is an intriguing maze of hútòng.
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Western Heaven
Making a neon splash in the centre of town, the Youyilu Bar Street is dotted with karaoke parlours and bars, including Western Heaven where you can hide away in the dark corners of its all-wood interior, play darts or nod off to tame sounds from live music acts.
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Confucius Temple
A Ming dynasty relic, it's worth poking around the Confucius Temple for its daily antiques market (Wénmiào Gǔwán Chéng) selling piles of books, propaganda posters and pamphlets from the Cultural Revolution - weekends are busiest.
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Alibaba
A loyal student crowd pack onto the sofas of easy-going and scruffy Alibaba's, tucked away behind an anonymous wooden door south off Tongan Dao. Walk down Tongan Nanli (同安南里) and it's around four buildings down on the right.
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Citibank Building
The grandiose and huge former Citibank Building opposite the former Chartered Bank of India, Australia and China, dates from 1918; now it's the Agricultural Bank of China. Pop in and have a peek at the interior during banking hours.
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Chartered Bank of India, Australia & China
A little down from the former Jardine Matheson & Co building is the former Chartered Bank of India, Australia & China, a colossal and overblown edifice with vast pillars, now serving as a post office.
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Old Town
Originally enclosed by a wall, Tiānjīn's old town centres on the restored Drum Tower. Decorated with páilou (decorative archways), the pedestrianised shopping street to the north of the Drum Tower is excellent for buying items such as calligraphy brushes, kites, paper cuts, snuff bottles, fans, silk, ceramics, jade, taichi swords, chops, jewellery, candy floss and sugarcane juice.
Opposite the Drum Tower you'll find the Guǎngdōng Guild Hall, built in 1907 and also known as the Museum of Opera; it's a lovely old ornate hall with lavishly carved woodwork and performances of traditional music from old-timers. The historic Confucius Temple is also nearby.
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Jade Emperor Pavilion
Incorporated into Gǔwénhuà Jiē (Ancient Culture Street) is the Jade Emperor Pavilion, an ancient solitary twin-eaved hall.
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Kincheng Bank
Walk north along Jiefang Beilu past the decaying nobility and wrought-iron balconies of the former Kincheng Bank built in 1937.
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Huabi Bank
A little north of the former Kincheng Bank, on the corner, is the old former site of the Huabi Bank, dating from the 1920s.
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T.G.I. Friday's
With all the usual props, salads, burgers, pasta, steaks, chicken and seafood dishes, T.G.I.'s is a handy expat bolthole.
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Jardine Matheson & Co
Opposite the former Huabi Bank is the former address of Jardine Matheson & Co, decorated with huge pillars.
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Guangdong Guild Hall
Near the Drum Tower is the Guangdong Guild Hall, built in 1907 and also known as the Museum of Opera.
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