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Introducing Hăiluógōu Glacier Park
Hǎiluógōu Glacier slides, literally, off the eastern slopes of Gònggā Shān to form the lowest glacier in Asia. No 1 Glacier (; Yīhào Bīngchuān), the main glacier, is 14km long and covers an area of 16 sq km. It’s relatively young as glaciers go: around 1600 years. The top of Hǎiluógōu can offer incredible vistas of Gònggā Shān and surrounding peaks, all above 6000m, but how much you actually see is entirely up to Mother Nature. Constantly framed with a backdrop of snowy peaks, the surrounding forests are also beautiful, with their ecosystems changing as you ascend the mountain.
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The entrance to Hǎiluógōu Glacier Park (Hǎiluógōu Bīngchuān Gōngyuán; admission Y140) lies in Móxī and the park was once a popular choice for trekking and camping. It was once possible to ascend the mountain by foot or pony trek but these days there is not a neigh to be heard for miles. The road running from the park entrance to Camp No 3, via Camps No 1 and 2, has been paved over and most people travel to Belvedere (Guānjǐngtái;), 3km above Camp No 3, by minibus. From Belvedere the tour groups tend to continue their ascent to the base of No 1 Glacier via cable car (Y160; 8.30am-4pm).
It is still possible to trek from Belvedere and it’s a one- to two-hour walk up to No 1 Glacier. While not a tough climb, the walk is made more difficult as the path has been largely neglected and so at times is hard to follow. On a clear day, however, there are some beautiful views to be had and the trail passes through some lovely forest. En route to the base is the Waterfall Viewing Platform (; Bīngchuān Guānjǐngtái) at 3000m. From here you can see the main glacier tongue, plus No 2 Glacier (; Èrhào Bīngchuān) and Golden Peak (; Jīnyínfēng) at 6368m.
The entrance fee to the park includes a guide, compulsory for all tourists going out on the glacier and handy for keeping you away from deep crevices and melting points. Guides meet you at the base of No 1 Glacier and take you on a 30-minute tour of the glacier after which you are free to go off and explore.
The park has become incredibly commercial. If you’re looking for a real getaway into the wilderness, then sadly this is no longer it. But if your main interest is seeing and even walking across a glacier, then the park is still worth a visit. If you do plan to trek, come prepared with warm clothes and sunglasses. You’ll also need to bring food and water, as you might not find much to buy en route until you reach Camp No 3 and its pricey restaurants. On maps of the park marked trails may be less than accurate and some may have disappeared.
The rainy season for this area spans July and August, although the locals say they get 200 days of rain a year. The best time to visit is between late September and November, when skies are generally clear. Autumn colours are particularly beautiful at this time, though it can be cold up at Camp No 3.
Last updated: Feb 17, 2009
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