Sights in Central Sìchuān
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Giant Panda Breeding Research Base
One of Chéngdū's most popular tourist attractions, this reserve, 18km north of the city centre, is the easiest way to catch a glimpse of Sìchuān's most famous residents outside of a zoo. The enclosures here are large and kept in good condition.
Home to nearly 50 giant and red pandas, the base focuses on getting these sexually reluctant creatures to breed; March to May is the 'falling in love period', wink wink. If you visit in autumn or winter, you may see tiny newborns in the nursery.
There's a corny but informative 15-minute film about panda mating habits and an old-fashioned museum has detailed exhibits on panda evolution, habits, habitats and conservation efforts, a…
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Zhaojue Temple
The Zhaojue Temple dates back to the 7th century and has since served as a model for many Japanese and Southeast Asian Buddhist temples.
During the early Qing dynasty, Zhàojué Sì underwent extensive reconstruction under the supervision of Po Shan, a famous Buddhist monk who established the lovely waterways and groves you see here today. The effect is impressive and the grounds are quieter and more spread out than at Chéngdū's other temples.
Little of the temple's original architecture survived the Cultural Revolution, and serious restoration work was only undertaken in the last decade. There are several pavilions, though all except the imposing prayer hall were being…
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Du Fu's Cottage
The revered Tang- dynasty poet, Du Fu (712–70) was born in Hénán, but lived in Chéngdū, in this thatched cottage, for four of his most prolific years. He wrote more than 200 poems whilst here, including one entitled 'My thatched hut was torn apart by the autumn wind'. The 10-hectare site is now part park, part museum.
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Tomb of Wang Jian
The only mausoleum excavated in China so far that features an above-ground tomb chamber, this slightly creepy vault honours Wang Jian (847–918), a general who came to power after the AD 907 collapse of the Tang dynasty and became emperor of the Shu kingdom. The tomb itself is decorated with carvings of 24 musicians all playing different instruments, considered to be the best surviving record of a Tang-dynasty musical troupe, while the statue of Wang Jian at the back of the tomb is thought to be the only existing lifelike sculpture of an ancient Chinese king.
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Wǔhóu Temple
Located in Nánjiāo Park and surrounded by gardens with mossy cypresses draped over walkways, this temple honours several figures from the Three Kingdoms period, including Emperor Liu Bei and legendary military strategist Zhuge Liang, who was immortalised in one of the classics of Chinese literature, Romance of the Three Kingdoms (Sān Guó Yǎnyì). Just east of the temple is Jǐnlǐ Gǔjiē (锦里古街) a gentrified 'new-old' district crammed with souvenir junk stalls and local snacks.
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Wàngjiānglóu Gōngyuán
In the southeast of town, near Sìchuān University, is Wàngjiānglóu Gōngyuán, a park known for its beautiful bamboo-lined paths and dedicated to the Tang dynasty poet Xue Tao, one of the few women of this period whose work is still celebrated today. The four-storey, wooden Qing pavilion in the heart of the park overlooks Brocade River and was built in her honour. The well nearby is where Xue Tao is said to have drawn water to dye her writing paper.
The park also features over 150 varieties of bamboo from China, Japan and Southeast Asia, ranging from bonsai-sized potted plants to towering giants.
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Green Ram Temple
Located in Culture Park, this is Chéngdū's oldest and most extensive Taoist temple. According to legend, stroking the bronze goat here can vanquish life's troubles. (The other, less goatlike goat combines features of all the Chinese zodiac animals.) Another highlight is an eight-sided pagoda, built without bolts or pegs.
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Golden Summit Temple
The magnificent but clearly recently renovated Golden Summit Temple at the Golden Summit (Jīn Dǐng; 3077m) is as far as most hikers make it. Covered with glazed tiles and surrounded by white marble balustrades, the temple now occupies 1695 sq metres. The original temple had a bronze-coated roof, which is how it got the name Jīn Dǐng (which can also mean 'Gold Top').
It's constantly overrun with tourists, pilgrims and monks, and you'll be continuously bumped and jostled. Sadly, the sun rarely forces its way through the mists up here.
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Long Life Monastery
Reconstructed in the 9th century, Long Life Monastery is the oldest surviving Éméi temple. It's dedicated to the man on the white elephant, the Bodhisattva Puxian, who is the protector of the mountain. This 8.5m-high statue is dated from AD 980, cast in copper and bronze and weighs an estimated 62,000kg.
If you can manage to rub the elephant's hind leg, good luck will be cast upon you. The statue is housed in Brick Hall, a domed building with small stupas on it and the only building left unharmed in a 1945 fire.
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Wénshū Temple
This Tang-dynasty monastery is dedicated to Wenshu (Manjushri), the Bodhisattva of Wisdom, and is Chéngdū's largest and best-preserved Buddhist temple. The air is redolent with incense, there's a low murmur of chanting, and despite frequent crowds of worshippers, there's still a sense of serenity and solitude. The temple's excellent vegetarian restaurant has an English menu, some garden seating and an atmospheric teahouse next door.
Outside the temple is one of Chéngdū's three rebuilt 'old' neighbourhoods, where the narrow streets are lined with teahouses, snack stalls and shops. Touristy, yes, but still fun for a quick wander.
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Monument to the Martyrs of the Railway Protection Movement
Plopped in the middle of the People's Park's bonsai and perennials is the Monument to the Martyrs of the Railway Protection Movement (1911). This obelisk memorialises an uprising of the people against corrupt officers pocketing cash intended for railway construction. People's Park was a private officer's garden, so it was a fitting place to put the structure.
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Sìchuān University Museum
The Sìchuān University Museum is one of the better museums in the southwest. The collection is particularly strong in the fields of ethnology, folklore and traditional art, and is housed in a swank modern building near the university's east gate. However, it's been closed for some time and no-one seems to know when it will be reopening. Stay tuned.
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Pure Sound Pavilion
Named after the sound effects produced by rapid waters coursing around rock formations, this temple is built on an outcrop in the middle of a fast-flowing stream. Small pavilions here are great for appreciating the natural music. It's possible to swim here, although the water is only likely to be warm enough during the summer months.
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Elephant Bathing Pool
According to legend, Elephant Bathing Pool is where Pǔxián flew his elephant in for a big scrub, but today there's not much of a pool to speak of. Being almost at the crossroads of both major trails, the temple here is often crowded with pilgrims.
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People's Park
Particularly on weekends, People's Park is filled with locals dancing, singing, strolling and practising taichi. There are a number of teahouses here too; Hè Míng Teahouse is particularly popular.
Plopped in the middle of the park's bonsai and perennials (open 9am to 5pm) is the Monument to the Martyrs of the Railway Protection Movement (1911). This obelisk memorialises an uprising of the people against corrupt officers who pocketed cash intended for railway construction.
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Culture Park
You can give the Culture Park next door to the Green Ram Temple a miss. With its mass of teahouses, souvenir stalls and weathered rides for kids, it's noisy, loud and doesn't actually have much green space.
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Declare Nation Temple
Constructed in the 16th century, Declare Nation Temple features rare plants and a 3.5m-high porcelain Buddha that was made in 1415, which is housed near the Sutra Library.
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Crouching Tiger Monastery
The renovated Crouching Tiger Monastery is hidden deep within the forest. Inside is a 7m-high copper pagoda inscribed with Buddhist images and texts.
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Immortal Peak Monastery
Somewhat off the beaten track, the Immortal Peak Monastery is backed by rugged cliffs, surrounded by fantastic scenery and oozing with character.
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Ten Thousand Buddha Summit
From the Golden Summit it was once common to hike to Ten Thousand Buddha Summit, but most pilgrims now just take the monorail.
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Jiulao Cave
Near the Immortal Peak Monastery, the Jiulao Cave is inhabited by oversized bats.
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Zhāng Fēi Temple
This temple is the tomb of and shrine to local boy Zhang Fei, a respected general during the kingdom of Shu, who administered the kingdom from here. It's on Xi Jie (西街), a continuation of Wumiao Jie (武庙街).
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Yang's Restaurant
Octogenarian and travel guru Mr Yang and his wife run this small restaurant in the living room of their home. They serve simple but tasty local food and he may regale you with tales of his life while you eat.
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Xiānfēng Temple
Somewhat off the beaten track, this well-looked-after monastery is backed by rugged cliffs and surrounded by fantastic scenery.
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Wànnián Temple
Reconstructed in the 9th century, Wànnián Temple is the oldest surviving Éméi temple. It's dedicated to the man on the white elephant, the Bodhisattva Pǔxián (also known as Samantabhadra), the Buddhist Lord of Truth and protector of the mountain. This 8.5m-high statue cast in copper and bronze dates from AD 980 and weighs an estimated 62,000kg. If you can manage to rub the elephant's hind leg, good luck will be cast upon you. The statue is housed in Brick Hall, a domed building with small stupas on it and the only building left unharmed in a 1945 fire.
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