Lánxīn Cāntīng

The best Shanghainese kitchens are the hole-in-the-walls along Jinxian Rd. These aren’t design-heavy restaurants started by savvy investors or international superchefs, they’re unpretentious and family-run – the last of a dying breed. Dishes to savour include the classic hóngshāo ròu ( 红烧肉; braised pork; Y30), the delectable gānshāo chāngyú ( 干烧鲳鱼; quick-fried Pomfret fish; Y50-65) and even the xiǎopái luóbo tāng ( 小排萝卜汤; spare-rib-and-radish soup; Y20). For total immersion, order a bottle of warm huáng jiǔ ( 黄酒; traditional Chinese wine; Y30). If the wait is too long, Hǎijīnzī ( 海金滋; 240 Jinxian Rd) at the western end of the street is a comparable experience. No reservations, no English and cash only.