The city’s most famous sesame-seed-and-scallion-coated fried dumplings ( 生煎; shēngjiān ) unquestionably belong to Yang’s. Lines here can stretch to the horizon as eager diners wait for their scalding shēngjiān to be dished out onto vintage communist-era enamel dishes – this isn’t some sort of retro fashion statement, they just never bothered to upgrade the tableware. Order at the left counter – eight dumplings and a soup ( 汤; tāng ) should be enough – then join the queue on the right to pick up your order.