Things to do in Shāndōng
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Confucius Mansions
Adjacent to the Confucius Temple are the Confucius Mansions, a maze of 450 halls, rooms, buildings and side passages originally dating from the 16th century.
The mansions were the most sumptuous aristocratic lodgings in China, indicative of the Kong family's former power. From the Han to the Qing dynasties, the descendants of Confucius were ennobled and granted privileges by the emperors. They lived like kings themselves, with 180-course meals, servants and consorts.
Qūfù grew around the Confucius Mansions and was an autonomous estate administered by the Kongs, who had powers of taxation and execution. Emperors could drop in to visit; the Ceremonial Gate near the south entr…
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Confucius Forest
Around 2km north of town on Lindao Lu is the peaceful Confucius Forest, the largest artificial park and best-preserved cemetery in China.
The pine and cypress forest of over 100,000 trees covers 200 hectares and is bounded by a wall 10km long. Confucius and his descendants have been buried here over the past 2000 years, a tradition that continues today. In summer, wild flowers add a burst of colour amid the sea of green grass which threatens to envelop the haphazard arrangement of tombs and burial mounds.
Flanking the approach to the Tomb of Confucius (孔子墓; Kǒngzǐ Mù) are pairs of stone panthers, griffins and larger-than-life guardians. The tomb itself is a simple grass mou…
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Night Market
Wumaci Jie turns into a huge night market in the evenings. Look out for sellers of jiānbǐng guǒzi (煎饼裹子), a steaming crepe-like parcel of egg, vegetables and chilli sauce.
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Xinhua Bookstore
Sells a range of books at affordable prices. Located opposite the southeast corner of Drum Tower.
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Confucius Temple
China's largest imperial building complex after the Forbidden City, the temple actually started out as a simple memorial hall 2500 years ago, gradually mushrooming into today's compound, which is one-fifth the size of the Qūfù town centre. Like shrines to Confucius everywhere, it has an almost museumlike quality, with none of the worshippers or incense-burning rituals that animate religious temples. There is also little in the way of imagery, and the principal disciples and thinkers of Confucian thought are only paid tribute to with simple tablets, in the wings of the main courtyards. It also seems strange that emperors seem to get more mention here than the actual sage h…
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St Michael's Catholic Church
Completed in 1934, the twin-spired church, up a steep hill off Zhongshan Lu, is a grand edifice with a cross on each spire. The church was badly damaged during the Cultural Revolution and the crosses were torn off. God-fearing locals rescued them, however, and buried them in the hills. The interior is splendid, with white walls, gold piping, sections of stained glass all around and lots of technicolour murals. Look up the back to see an enormous organ that is still used for services. Put aside time to roam the area around here – a lattice of ancient hilly streets where old folk sit on wooden stools in decrepit doorways, playing cards and shooting the breeze.
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Shílǎorén
It comes as little surprise that Qīngdǎo's best beach is draped along the shore way off in the east of town, far from the shrieking rubber-ring/buckets-and-spade crowd. South of the dramatic mountain bulk of Fushan, Shílǎorén is a gorgeous 2.5km-long strip of clean sand and seawater-smoothed seashells, occasionally engulfed in banks of mist pouring in from offshore.
Early morning runs here are divine - and yours may be the only set of footprints on the sand. Take bus 317 from Taipingjiao or hop in a taxi.
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Yán Temple
A recent makeover is responsible for the five-fold (!) admission increase. The tranquil and little-visited Yán Temple northeast of the Confucius Mansions opens to a large grassy courtyard with some vast stele pavilions sheltering dirty stelae and antediluvian bìxì. The main hall, Fùshèng Hall (复圣殿; Fùshèng Diàn), is 17.5m high, with a hip and gable roof, and a magnificent ceiling decorated with the motif of a dragon head. Outside the hall are four magnificently carved pillars with coiling dragon designs and a further set of 18 octagonal pillars engraved with gorgeous dragon and floral patterns. The architecture is strikingly similar to that of the Confucius Temple.…
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Qīngdǎo Yíng Bīnguǎn
To the east of Xìnhàoshān Park remains one of Qīngdǎo's most interesting pieces of German architecture – the former German governor's residence and a replica of a German palace. Built in 1903, it is said to have cost 2,450,000 taels of silver. When Kaiser Wilhelm II got the bill, he immediately sacked the extravagant governor. In 1957 Chairman Mao stayed here with his wife and kids on holiday. It's now a museum.
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Little Qīngdǎo
Poking like a lollipop into Qīngdǎo Bay south of No 6 Bathing Beach, and dominated by its white German-built lighthouse, this spot along the peninsula is excellent for throwing off the crowds battling it out on the beaches. Set your alarm to catch early-morning vistas of the hazy bay and the town coming to life from the promontory's leafy park.
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Protestant Church
On a street notable for its German architecture, this church was designed by Curt Rothkegel and built in 1908. The interior is simple and Lutheran in its sparseness, apart from some delightful carvings on the pillar cornices. You can climb up to inspect the mechanism of its clock (Bockenem 1909). It is also well worth wandering along nearby Daxue Lu for a marvellous scenic view of old German Qīngdǎo.
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Huáng Dǎo
About 30 minutes by boat from Qīngdǎo and a further 30 minutes by bus is the beach of Huáng Dǎo , which is quieter and cleaner than Qīngdǎo's beaches. The ferry leaves from the Qīngdǎo local ferry terminal (Qīngdǎo lúndùzhàn), to the west of the train station. The first departure is at 06:30, with the final boat returning at 21:00. Once you reach the island, take bus 1 to its terminus.
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Tianhou Temple
This small restored temple is dedicated to Tianhou (Heaven Queen), Goddess of the Sea and protector of sailors. The main hall contains a colourful statue of Tianhou, flanked by two figures and a pair of fearsome guardians. Other halls include the Dragon King Hall (龙王殿; Lóngwáng Diàn), where in front of the Dragon King lies a splayed pig, and a shrine to the God of Wealth. What's absolutely incongruous and rather amusing are the many temple attendants who hawk joss sticks to visitors and literally command them to pay their respects.
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Meida'er Barbecue Restaurant
Sooner or later, Qīngdǎo's legendary kebabs will require your undivided attention, and where better to start than on Taishan Lu - the local Barbecue Street. Allow this trusty chain restaurant to thrust a thirst-quenching beer into one hand and scrummy lamb (羊肉串; yángròu chuàn), pork (猪肉串; zhūròu chuàn) or seafood kebabs into the other.
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Mausoleum of Shao Hao
Mausoleum of Shao, one of the five legendary emperors of Chinese antiquity, Shao Hao's pyramidal Song dynasty tomb, 4km northeast of Qūfù, is constructed from huge stone blocks, 25m wide at the base and 6m high, topped with a small temple. Today the temple is deserted, but the atmosphere is serene. Bus 2 from the bus station will drop you 350m south of the tomb, or take a taxi or pedicab.
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Xiao Wangfu Roast Duck Restaurant
Excellently located just north of the Crowne Plaza, this small and homely corner eatery is easily spotted for its traditional portico, red lanterns and white tablecloths drying outside. The duck is recommended and there's a range of pre-prepared chilled dishes just inside the door that makes ordering a breeze - just point, take your seat with a bottle of Tsingtao stout and wait.
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Post Hotel Restaurant
Equipped with an English menu, this clean restaurant has pricey tourist items, such as Kong Family Beancurd, but go instead for the much better-value mápó dòufu (麻婆豆腐) or jiǎozi (饺子)- zhūròu (猪肉; pork) and yángròu (羊肉; lamb).
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Tomb of Confucius
Flanking the approach to the Tomb of Confucius are pairs of stone panthers, griffins and larger-than-life guardians. The Confucian barrow is a simple grass mound enclosed by a low wall and faced with a Ming dynasty stele. The sage's sons are buried nearby and scattered through the forest are dozens of temples and pavilions. Small minibuses offer tours.
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Taipingshan Park
The mountainous area northeast of Zhongshan Park is called Taipingshan Park , an area of walking paths, pavilions and the best spot in town for hiking. In the centre of the park is the TV Tower (Diànshì Tǎ), which has an express lift up to fabulous views of the city (around Y30). You can reach the tower via cable car (Y20).
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Eight Passes Area
Nearby the No 1 Bathing Beach is the Eight Passes Area , which is well known for its sanatoriums and exclusive guesthouses. The spas are scattered in lush wooded zones off the coast, and each street is lined with a different tree or flower, including maple, myrtle, peach, snow pine or crab apple. This is a lovely area in which to stroll.
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Corner Jazz Club
Its candlelit tables and mezzanine attracting a youngish expat and local crowd, this spacious and atmospheric bar gets Qīngdǎo fingers snapping to motley live sounds every Tuesday (20:30 to 22:30). Staff speak excellent English and manage a well-stocked bar, while the paraphernalia extends to table football and darts.
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Ajisen Ramen
A chain that has the nation hopping must be doing something right. Ajisen's noodles - steaming blasts of chilli-infused flavour ferried to the table by black-attired staff - truly hit the spot. Flesh the meal out further with fried dumplings, potato balls or deep-fried shrimp. Pay as your order.
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Huāshí Lóu
The castlelike villa built in 1930 was originally the home of a Russian aristocrat, and later the German governor's retreat for fishing and hunting. The Chinese call it the 'Chiang Kaishek Building' as the generalissimo secretly stayed here in 1947. While most of the rooms in the house are closed, what's open is enough to evoke a sense of the times. Clamber up two narrow stairwells to get to the top of the turret. The surrounding views of the hills behind and the bay in front are stunning. Located at the eastern end of the No 2 Bathing Beach and at the southern tip of Zijingguan Lu.
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Tsingtao Brewery
Established in 1903 by the beer-loving Germans, the Tsingtao Brewery makes the finest brew in China with the mineral waters of nearby Láo Shān. Phone ahead to book a tour to examine the brewery, its fixtures and props.
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No 2 Bathing Beach
Heading out of Eight Passes Area, Nos 2 and 3 Bathing Beaches are just east, and the villas lining the headlands are quite exquisite. No 2 Bathing Beach is cleaner, quieter and more sheltered than No 1 Bathing Beach.
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