Confucius Mansions

Adjacent to the Confucius Temple are the Confucius Mansions, a maze of 450 halls, rooms, buildings and side passages originally dating from the 16th century.

The mansions were the most sumptuous aristocratic lodgings in China, indicative of the Kong family's former power. From the Han to the Qing dynasties, the descendants of Confucius were ennobled and granted privileges by the emperors. They lived like kings themselves, with 180-course meals, servants and consorts.

Qūfù grew around the Confucius Mansions and was an autonomous estate administered by the Kongs, who had powers of taxation and execution. Emperors could drop in to visit; the Ceremonial Gate near the south entrance was opened only for this event. Because of this royal protection, huge quantities of furniture, ceramics, artefacts and customary and personal effects survived, but many are kept hidden. The Kong family archives are a rich legacy and also survived. As with many 'cultural sights' in China, the mansion is undergoing a makeover and sometimes it's hard to tell what's original and what's a modern alteration.

The Confucius Mansions are built on an 'interrupted' north–south axis. Grouped by the south gate are the former administrative offices (taxes, edicts, rites, registration and examination halls). The Ceremonial Gate (重光门; Chóngguāng Mén) leads to the Great Hall (大堂; Dà Táng), two further halls and then the Nèizhái Gate (内宅门; Nèizhái Mén), which seals off the residential quarters (used for weddings, banquets and private functions). The large 'shòu' character (寿; longevity) within the single-eaved Upper Front Chamber (前上房; Qián Shàng Fáng) north of Nèizhái Gate was a gift from Qing empress Cixi. The Front Chamber (前堂楼; Qián Táng Lóu) was where the duke lived and is interestingly laid out on two floors – rare for a hall this size.

Located east just before the Nèizhái Gate is the Tower of Refuge (避难楼; Bìnàn Lóu) – not open to visitors – where the Kong clan could gather if the peasants turned nasty. It has an iron-lined ceiling on the ground floor, a staircase that could be yanked up into the interior, and provisions for a lengthy retreat.

Grouped to the west of the main axis are former recreational facilities (studies, guest rooms, libraries and small temples). To the east is the odd kitchen, ancestral temple and the family branch apartments. The last stop is the garden at the rear, where greenery, flowers and a sense of space (but not quiet) await.