Things to do in Qīngdǎo
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St Michael's Catholic Church
Completed in 1934, the twin-spired church, up a steep hill off Zhongshan Lu, is a grand edifice with a cross on each spire. The church was badly damaged during the Cultural Revolution and the crosses were torn off. God-fearing locals rescued them, however, and buried them in the hills. The interior is splendid, with white walls, gold piping, sections of stained glass all around and lots of technicolour murals. Look up the back to see an enormous organ that is still used for services. Put aside time to roam the area around here – a lattice of ancient hilly streets where old folk sit on wooden stools in decrepit doorways, playing cards and shooting the breeze.
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Shílǎorén
It comes as little surprise that Qīngdǎo's best beach is draped along the shore way off in the east of town, far from the shrieking rubber-ring/buckets-and-spade crowd. South of the dramatic mountain bulk of Fushan, Shílǎorén is a gorgeous 2.5km-long strip of clean sand and seawater-smoothed seashells, occasionally engulfed in banks of mist pouring in from offshore.
Early morning runs here are divine - and yours may be the only set of footprints on the sand. Take bus 317 from Taipingjiao or hop in a taxi.
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Qīngdǎo Yíng Bīnguǎn
To the east of Xìnhàoshān Park remains one of Qīngdǎo's most interesting pieces of German architecture – the former German governor's residence and a replica of a German palace. Built in 1903, it is said to have cost 2,450,000 taels of silver. When Kaiser Wilhelm II got the bill, he immediately sacked the extravagant governor. In 1957 Chairman Mao stayed here with his wife and kids on holiday. It's now a museum.
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Little Qīngdǎo
Poking like a lollipop into Qīngdǎo Bay south of No 6 Bathing Beach, and dominated by its white German-built lighthouse, this spot along the peninsula is excellent for throwing off the crowds battling it out on the beaches. Set your alarm to catch early-morning vistas of the hazy bay and the town coming to life from the promontory's leafy park.
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Protestant Church
On a street notable for its German architecture, this church was designed by Curt Rothkegel and built in 1908. The interior is simple and Lutheran in its sparseness, apart from some delightful carvings on the pillar cornices. You can climb up to inspect the mechanism of its clock (Bockenem 1909). It is also well worth wandering along nearby Daxue Lu for a marvellous scenic view of old German Qīngdǎo.
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Huáng Dǎo
About 30 minutes by boat from Qīngdǎo and a further 30 minutes by bus is the beach of Huáng Dǎo , which is quieter and cleaner than Qīngdǎo's beaches. The ferry leaves from the Qīngdǎo local ferry terminal (Qīngdǎo lúndùzhàn), to the west of the train station. The first departure is at 06:30, with the final boat returning at 21:00. Once you reach the island, take bus 1 to its terminus.
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Tianhou Temple
This small restored temple is dedicated to Tianhou (Heaven Queen), Goddess of the Sea and protector of sailors. The main hall contains a colourful statue of Tianhou, flanked by two figures and a pair of fearsome guardians. Other halls include the Dragon King Hall (龙王殿; Lóngwáng Diàn), where in front of the Dragon King lies a splayed pig, and a shrine to the God of Wealth. What's absolutely incongruous and rather amusing are the many temple attendants who hawk joss sticks to visitors and literally command them to pay their respects.
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Meida'er Barbecue Restaurant
Sooner or later, Qīngdǎo's legendary kebabs will require your undivided attention, and where better to start than on Taishan Lu - the local Barbecue Street. Allow this trusty chain restaurant to thrust a thirst-quenching beer into one hand and scrummy lamb (羊肉串; yángròu chuàn), pork (猪肉串; zhūròu chuàn) or seafood kebabs into the other.
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Xiao Wangfu Roast Duck Restaurant
Excellently located just north of the Crowne Plaza, this small and homely corner eatery is easily spotted for its traditional portico, red lanterns and white tablecloths drying outside. The duck is recommended and there's a range of pre-prepared chilled dishes just inside the door that makes ordering a breeze - just point, take your seat with a bottle of Tsingtao stout and wait.
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Taipingshan Park
The mountainous area northeast of Zhongshan Park is called Taipingshan Park , an area of walking paths, pavilions and the best spot in town for hiking. In the centre of the park is the TV Tower (Diànshì Tǎ), which has an express lift up to fabulous views of the city (around Y30). You can reach the tower via cable car (Y20).
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Eight Passes Area
Nearby the No 1 Bathing Beach is the Eight Passes Area , which is well known for its sanatoriums and exclusive guesthouses. The spas are scattered in lush wooded zones off the coast, and each street is lined with a different tree or flower, including maple, myrtle, peach, snow pine or crab apple. This is a lovely area in which to stroll.
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Corner Jazz Club
Its candlelit tables and mezzanine attracting a youngish expat and local crowd, this spacious and atmospheric bar gets Qīngdǎo fingers snapping to motley live sounds every Tuesday (20:30 to 22:30). Staff speak excellent English and manage a well-stocked bar, while the paraphernalia extends to table football and darts.
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Ajisen Ramen
A chain that has the nation hopping must be doing something right. Ajisen's noodles - steaming blasts of chilli-infused flavour ferried to the table by black-attired staff - truly hit the spot. Flesh the meal out further with fried dumplings, potato balls or deep-fried shrimp. Pay as your order.
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Huāshí Lóu
The castlelike villa built in 1930 was originally the home of a Russian aristocrat, and later the German governor's retreat for fishing and hunting. The Chinese call it the 'Chiang Kaishek Building' as the generalissimo secretly stayed here in 1947. While most of the rooms in the house are closed, what's open is enough to evoke a sense of the times. Clamber up two narrow stairwells to get to the top of the turret. The surrounding views of the hills behind and the bay in front are stunning. Located at the eastern end of the No 2 Bathing Beach and at the southern tip of Zijingguan Lu.
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Tsingtao Brewery
Established in 1903 by the beer-loving Germans, the Tsingtao Brewery makes the finest brew in China with the mineral waters of nearby Láo Shān. Phone ahead to book a tour to examine the brewery, its fixtures and props.
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No 2 Bathing Beach
Heading out of Eight Passes Area, Nos 2 and 3 Bathing Beaches are just east, and the villas lining the headlands are quite exquisite. No 2 Bathing Beach is cleaner, quieter and more sheltered than No 1 Bathing Beach.
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Guanhaishan Park
The charm of small Guanhaishan Park lies in finding it: the route winds up a small hill through restful lanes; the park is at the top. Although small, the park was used as a golf course by the Germans.
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Chūnhélóu
Dating back to 1891, this unremarkable-looking restaurant remains very popular. Downstairs is a busy help-yourself-to-as-much-as-you-can-eat type diner, with a smarter option upstairs.
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Xinhaoshan Park
Down the hill and to the east is Xinhaoshan Park , the summit of which is capped by the carbuncular towers known as the mógu lóu (mushroom buildings).
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Lennon Bar
Vast two-floor temple to Beatles culture with a loyal following, a good atmosphere and a lived-in feel, with table football, a pool table and live music (on Thursday).
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SOS Entertainment
The coolest and most stylish club in town, with top-flight DJs, extremely loud music and a cross-section of Qīngdǎo's best-dressed pretty young things.
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Zhanshan Temple
Within Taipingshan Park is Qīngdǎo's largest temple, Zhanshan Temple . The temple has a number of dramatic sandalwood Buddhas covered in gold foil.
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Jusco
Near the southeast corner of Fuzhou Nanlu and Xianggang Zhonglu. Food court and supermarket.
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Zhongshan Park
Zhongshan Park covers a vast 80 hectares, and in springtime is a heavily wooded profusion of flowering shrubs and plants. Buses 25 and 26 travel to the park.
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Carrefour
On the northwest corner of Nanjing Lu and Xianggang Zhonglu. You can buy most everything here.
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