St Michael's Catholic Church

Completed in 1934, the twin-spired church, up a steep hill off Zhongshan Lu, is a grand edifice with a cross on each spire. The church was badly damaged during the Cultural Revolution and the crosses were torn off. God-fearing locals rescued them, however, and buried them in the hills. The interior is splendid, with white walls, gold piping, sections of stained glass all around and lots of technicolour murals. Look up the back to see an enormous organ that is still used for services. Put aside time to roam the area around here – a lattice of ancient hilly streets where old folk sit on wooden stools in decrepit doorways, playing cards and shooting the breeze.