Qīngdǎo Beaches

Qīngdǎo is famed for its six beaches, which are pleasant enough, but don't go expecting the French Riviera. Chinese beach culture is low-key, although the main swimming season (June to September) sees hordes of sun-seekers fighting for towel space. Shark nets, lifeguards, lifeboat patrols and medical stations are at hand. If you give in to the many touts in the area, you can take a boat ride around the bay for Y10 to Y20 depending on the size of the boat.

Qīngdǎo's largest beach is draped along the shore, way off in the east of town. Shílǎorén Bathing Beach (石老人; Donghai Donglu) is a 2.5km-long strip of clean sand and seawater-smoothed seashells, occasionally engulfed in banks of mist pouring in from offshore. The area around the beach has undergone heavy development in recent years, and has lost some of its charm. The beach gets its name from a hunk of rock sticking out from a rocky strip a few kilometres up the road. If you squint hard enough and have a good imagination, you just might make out a 'Stone Old Man'. Take bus 304 from Zhàn Bridge (Zhàn Qiáo, Y2.50, 45 minutes) or hop in a taxi (Y20). If you take the bus, stop off at the Hái'er Lú (海尔) stop and head east. On the way, look out for the dilapidated Qingdao International Beer City – this once popular amusement park sponsored by the Tsingtao Beer Company now lies in what looks like postapocalyptic ruins.

Close to the train station is the No 6 Bathing Beach and neighbouring Zhàn Bridge (Zhàn Qiáo), a pier that reaches out into the bay and is tipped with the eight-sided Huílán Pavilion (Huílán Gé), constantly packed to the rafters with tourists. The pavilion is the very same one used on the logo of Tsingtao beer labels.

Near the centre of town, the sand of No 1 Bathing Beach is coarse-grained, engulfed in seaweed, and bordered by concrete beach huts and bizarre statues of dolphins. The nearby Bādàguān area is well known for its sanatoriums and exclusive guesthouses. The spas are scattered in lush wooded zones off the coast, and each street is lined with a different tree or flower, including maple, myrtle, peach, snow pine or crab apple. This is a lovely area in which to stroll.

Heading out of Eight Passes Area, Nos 2 and 3 Bathing Beaches are just east, and the villas lining the headlands are exquisite. No 2 Bathing Beach is cleaner, quieter and more sheltered than No 1 Bathing Beach and probably Qīngdǎo's best beach within the city limits. It's not uncommon to see dozens of couples dressed in wedding outfits, getting their photos taken. Huāshí Loú backs onto this beach. You can stroll west along this beach back into town.