Lánzhōu Lā Miàn
No-frills noodle restaurant run by a family of Chinese-Muslims. Noodles are all handmade on the premises and service is quick and efficient. Order the hearty beef noodle soup (牛肉面; nǐu ròumìan ) or just point at what the next person's having. You can't go wrong as it's all cheap, cheerful and pretty good.