When to go & weather

Weather

Shaanxi is part of the Loess Plateau, an area covered by thick layers of microscopic silt that began blowing down from Siberia during the Ice Age. The hallmarks of China’s ‘yellow earth’ are cave houses (yáodòng) and a fissured, treeless landscape.

Running across the south of the province are the Qinling Mountains, the major north–south watershed in China and home to a number of endangered species, such as the golden-haired monkey, crested ibis and giant panda. Permits are often required to travel in this area, though it’s slowly opening up to individual travellers. Inquire about ecotourism at the Foping Nature Reserve (www.fpnr.com); expect to pay upwards of Y500 for entry.

Shaanxi is usually either bloody hot or bitterly cold. Annual rainfall is a sparse 50cm, most of it falling June through August. Spring (April and May) and autumn (September and October) are the best times to visit.