Getting there & away
Yùshù is an intimidating 20-hour, 820km-long sleeper bus ride across the grasslands from Xīníng. The trip isn’t as bad as it sounds but be prepared for an altitude headache (much of the route is above 4200m) and get a window berth so you can at least suck in a modicum of fresh air to dilute all the cigarette smoke. Buy your ticket the day before to guarantee a good berth. Formal toilet stops are few and far between.
Sleepers leave Yùshù’s main bus station at noon and 1pm for Xīníng (Y154). Nonsleepers leave at 8.30am and 9am (Y115) and pass through Mǎduō (Y47) around 3pm.
Other destinations are more hit and miss. You should be able to track down daily buses to Záduō (Y40) and Chēngduō (Y20) at 8am. Cramped minivans depart when full from the main square for Zhìduō (Y40 per person) and Qūmácài (Y50).