Tǎ’ěr S

Introducing Tǎ’ěr S

One of the six great monasteries of the Yellow Hat sect of Tibetan Buddhism, Tǎ’ěr Sì (admission Y80; 8.30am-6pm), or Kumbum in Tibetan, is in the town of Huángzhōng, 26km south of Xīníng. It was built in 1577 on hallowed ground – the birthplace of Tsongkhapa, founder of the Yellow Hat sect.

While of enormous historic significance, Tǎ’ěr Sì today seems to have been relegated to museum status by Běijīng. The artwork and architecture are redeeming, yet the atmosphere and scenery pale in comparison with other monasteries in Amdo. If the thought of being led around a Tibetan monastery by a Chinese tour guide dressed in fake Tibetan clothes makes you wince, then spend your time at Labrang Monastery instead.

Nine temples are open, the most important being the Grand Hall of Golden Tiles, where a 11m-high chörten marks the spot of Tsongkhapa’s birth. The monastery is also famous for its sculptures of human figures, animals and landscapes carved out of yak butter.

Admission tickets are sold at the building diagonally opposite the row of stupas. Photography is prohibited inside the temples.

Last updated: Mar 2, 2009