Qīnghǎi Hú

Introducing Qīnghǎi Hú

Qīnghǎi Hú (Lake Kokonor) is a somewhat surreal-looking saline lake west of Xīníng. The huge lake (more like an inland sea) has often served as the symbolic midway point between Tibet and Mongolia. It was here in 1578 that the Mongolian leader Altan Khan conferred upon Sonam Gyatso (then head of the Gelugpa sect) the title of Dalai Lama, dalai being the Mongolian translation of gyatso, or ocean.

The main attraction is Niǎo Dǎo (; Bird Island; admission Y58), located on the western side of the lake, and about 300km from Xīníng. It’s a breeding ground for thousands of wild geese, gulls, cormorants, sandpipers, extremely rare black-necked cranes and other bird species. Perhaps the most interesting are the bar-headed geese. These hardy birds migrate over the Himalayas to spend winter on the Indian plains and have been spotted flying at altitudes of 10, 000m. You will only see great numbers of birds during the breeding season between March and early June. Niǎo Dǎo is no longer an island, although it used to be before the lake receded and made it part of the mainland.

Be aware that tourism here is depleting the native fish population, which the birds depend upon for survival. Stating that you don’t eat fish (wǒ bù chī yú; well in advance of any meals is highly encouraged.

Qīnghǎi Hú is also ground zero in China’s struggle against avian flu. If there has been an outbreak recently, you may find the lake is off limits to visitors.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009