Things to do in Níngxià
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A
Xiānhè Lóu
You can't go wrong here, with great kǎoyángpái (烤羊排; barbecued ribs) and jīngjiàng ròusī (京酱肉丝; soy pork), which you wrap up in little pancakes. Check out the shuǐjiǎo (boiled ravioli-style dumplings) production line in the southern of the two branches here (they're located about 30m apart).
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B
Westland Coffee Shop
Western-style place offering reasonable pizza, pasta and steaks. Finish off your meal with a tasty banana split (Y12). The sign outside says 'Coffee Tea B&F'.
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Níngxià Museum
This brand-new museum is a cavernous three-storey structure located halfway between the new and old cities. It contains an extensive collection of rock art, Silk Road–era pottery and ancient Korans as well as the requisite hall of communist propaganda and Mao fun facts. This is a good starting point if you want to learn something of the Hui as the museum contains several halls of Hui art and culture. Bus 102 passes nearby.
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C
Night Market
Known locally as the 'Snack Street' (小吃街; Xiaǒchī Jiē), this is one of the best places to dine. There are lots of cheap eats; two favourites are ròujiāmó (肉夹馍; fried pork or beef stuffed in pita bread, sometimes with green peppers and cumin) and shāguō (砂锅; minihotpot). A nearby side alley is jam-packed with bars and small clubs.
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D
Napoli
Take a break from noodle stalls and try out this Western-style buffet, complete with rare treats like pizza and fresh fruit salad.
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Italian Bar
This small, somewhat grungy bar serves up Y8 beers to a local crowd. Expect to be invited in for a round of drinks. From here you could take your pub crawl to the bars near the Night Market.
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Hǎibǎo Tǎ Pagoda
This 5th-century pagoda is set on the grounds of a well-maintained monastery. The pagoda, also known as Běi Tǎ (North Pagoda), was toppled by an earthquake in 1739 and rebuilt in 1771 in the original style. From the top of the nine-storey structure you get fine views of the Hèlán Shān range to the west and the Yellow River to the east. Take minibus 20 north on Jinning Beijie for five stops to the Běitǎ Lùkǒu (北塔路口) and then walk north for 15 minutes, or take a taxi (Y5).
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Gāo Temple
This eclectic, multipurpose temple has at various times catered to the needs of Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism. It's still a hodgepodge of architectural styles, but the revitalised Buddhist deities have muscled out the original Taoists and Confucians.
The real oddity is the former bomb shelter, built beneath the temple during the Cultural Revolution and later converted into a Buddhist hell-haunted house. The eerie, dimly lit tunnels echo with the haunting screams of the damned. Try not to get too freaked out.
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E
Foreign Languages Bookshop
English-language current-affairs and fiction titles are located on the 2nd floor.
reviewed
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Chéngtiānsì Tǎ
Also known as Xī Tǎ (西塔; West Pagoda), the pagoda was closed for renovation at the time of research, but when it opens you should be able to climb to the top via 13 tiers of steepish stairs.
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F
Be For Time Teahouse
Kick back with a magazine, play mah jong or hit the foosball table at this contemporary teahouse. Ice cream, yoghurt, bar snacks, various teas and wi-fi are available.
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G
Bái Gōng
Waiters here push around carts piled high with all forms of delicious steamed dumplings and buns. It offers good variety for solo travellers (and easy ordering), but you may need to order half a dozen dishes to quench your appetite.
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