Things to do in Shěnyáng
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Shenyang Botanical Garden
These rambling gardens are filled with plants and flowers native to northeastern China. Special exhibitions highlight tulips (May), peonies (June) and chrysanthemums (October). Even more entertaining than the vegetation are the nearly 50 bridges suspended across a shallow river that visitors try to traverse. There are narrow log bridges - like over-water balance beams - as well as rolling barrels, swinging bridges, floating rafts and more.
Cross if you dare; you'll likely end up in the water!
Trains run about once an hour from the north and south stations to the Botanical Garden (30 minutes), about 20km east of the city centre.
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18 September History Museum
There's an obvious propagandic purpose to this museum, but the hundreds of photographs, sculptures, paintings and dioramas are informative on this notorious part of China's modern history. English captions are limited. Bus 325 from the north train station stops in front. The museum is about 2km northeast from the town centre.
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North Tomb
Another Shěnyáng highlight is this extensive tomb complex, the burial place of Huang Taiji (1592–1643), founder of the Qing dynasty. The tomb's animal statues lead up to the central mound known as the Luminous Tomb (Zhāo Líng).
In many ways a better-preserved complex than the Imperial Palace, the tomb site is worth a few hours examining the dozens of buildings with their traditional architecture and ornamentation. Lóng'ēn Hall is a particularly fine structure, and as you circumambulate the base observe the richness of traditional symbols (peonies, vases, lucky clouds) carved in relief.
The North Tomb sits a few kilometres north of town inside expansive Běi Líng Park…
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Imperial Palace
Shěnyáng's main attraction is this impressive palace complex, which resembles a small-scale Forbidden City. Constructed between 1625 and 1636 by Manchu emperor Nurhachi (1559–1626) and his son, Huang Taiji, the palace served as the residence of the Qing-dynasty rulers until 1644.
The central courtyard buildings include ornate ceremonial halls and imperial living quarters, including a royal baby cradle. In all, there are 114 buildings, not all of which are open to the public.
Don't miss the double-eaved octagonal Dàzhèng Hall (at the rear of the complex), which has two gold dragons curled around the pillars at the entrance, a deep interior plafond ceiling and an elabor…
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Pagoda Of Buddhist Ashes
This 13-storey brick pagoda dates back to AD 1044. A small museum on the peaceful grounds includes relics removed from inside the pagoda. Take bus 205 from the North Tomb or the south train station and get off at the corner of Taiwan Jie and Ningshan Lu. Walk north, cross the bridge and turn right. The pagoda is a three-minute walk north of here. Look for a red gate on the right.
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Suiyuan Home-Like Restaurant
Traditional Chinese furnishings and widely spaced tables give this dōngběi restaurant a classy feel, but the hearty fare and moderate prices do make it 'home-like' - at least if your mother used to prepare cold meat platters, greens with Sichuan peppercorns and crispy fried breads. The entrance is in the lane behind the Liaoning Hotel.
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Zhongxing Shenyang Commercial Building
Inside the Zhongxing Shenyang Commercial Building, near the south train station, there's a decent supermarket on the 2nd floor. At the Carrefour Supermarket (Jiālèfú; Beizhan Lu), near the long-distance bus station, you can pack a picnic for your travels or grab a quick bite from the food court.
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Liáoníng Provincial Museum
Three floors of exhibits highlight the region's prehistoric culture, Liao- dynasty ceramics, ancient Chinese money and carved stone tablets illustrating the evolution of Chinese calligraphy.
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Carrefour Supermarket
Near the long-distance bus station. You can pack a picnic for your travels here or grab a quick bite from the noodle joints on the ground floor.
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Dazheng Hall
Don't miss the octagonal Dazheng Hall with its coffered ceiling and elaborate throne, where Nurhachi's grandson, Emperor Shunzhi, was crowned. The central courtyard buildings include ornate ceremonial halls and imperial living quarters, including a royal baby cradle.
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Suíyìshāo Kǎoròu Zhuānméndiàn
Cook your own pork belly, beef and other meats 'as you please' at this family-run BBQ joint. Sit under the space-age metallic fixtures and ask for suāncài (酸菜; pickled cabbage) or sliced potatoes to add to your tabletop grill.
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Xiǎo Tǔdòu
This dōngběi (northeastern) eatery is packed with families, couples and groups of all ages who come for the eponymous potato dish that's anything but small; it's a hearty and delicious stew of spuds and greens in a meaty broth.
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View & World Vegetarian Restaurant
Peking duck (Y28) and meatballs (Y24) are on the menu here, but there won't be any actual meat on your plate. Everything is meat-free at this nearly vegan paradise, which claims to be the only non-MSG restaurant in all northeast China (an astonishing claim if true). The fruit and vegie drinks pair up nicely with the main courses.
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Jia Music, Food & Drinks
Korean restaurants, karaoke bars and coffee shops line the brightly lit (if slightly seedy) Xita Jie. A more upscale choice is Jia Music, Food & Drinks , a stylish lounge in the same building as the Golden Triangle Hotel.
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East Tomb
Also known as Fú Líng, this smaller tomb complex is the final resting place of Nurhachi and his mistress. It's 15km east of the city centre. Take bus 218 (45 minutes) from the Imperial Palace.
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Lǎobiān Jiǎoziguǎn
Of course, the dumplings are good - this old-favourite has been in business since 1829 - but don't neglect the fresh vegetable dishes and tasty cold plates.
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Northern Book Town
Has a small selection of English-language books, mostly classics and 19th-century fiction.
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Yúfū Mǎtóu Shāokǎo
A friendly, fun, three-floor restaurant with a nautical theme. The seafood platter (Y118) arrives in a boat-shaped dish and satisfies two or three people easily. Plenty of meat is available, plus hotpot, and some very filling and cheap noodle and vegie dishes with an emphasis on spice. There's also a proper bar where you can sip a Harbin beer. Picture menu available.
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Stroller's
It looks more like a superior junk shop than a bar, with the walls and ceiling covered with old posters, helmets, bikes and seemingly anything they could find. A popular spot with both locals and expats, it does reasonable Western food, too. The street is not signed, so look for the Royal Hotel on Shiyi Wei Lu. Stroller's is about a block north.
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Lǎobiān Dumplings
Shěnyáng's most famous restaurant has been packing in the locals since 1829, and they continue to flock here for the fine dumplings. But the soups are equally impressive. The restaurant is on the 2nd floor of the Lǎobiān Hotel.
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Huáng Sìmiào
This Buddhist complex was first built in 1636 and houses the remains of a high-ranking monk. Probably more interesting are the large black statues outside the temple representing all the Qing-dynasty emperors.
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Expo Garden
These vast gardens on the eastern outskirts of Shěnyáng have dozens of elaborate exhibition gardens featuring plants and flowers from almost every region of China, as well as some from overseas. With restaurants and snack stops scattered throughout, you can easily spend a day wandering.
Trains leave the north station at 6.15am and 9.15am (Y3.50, 30 minutes) and return at 6.15pm and 7.30pm, but you can catch bus 168 back to the city or a taxi (Y50 to Y70).
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