Sights in Jí’ān
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Wandu Mountain City
The capital of the Koguryo kingdom in its early and middle period, this city was first built in AD 3 but was destroyed in the 3rd century. There's little left of the original buildings, but the layout has been cleared and it's still immensely enjoyable scrambling about the terraces and enjoying the views that surely must have been a deciding factor in establishing the capital here.
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Riverside Plaza
Where on earth did the budget come from to transform the formerly dour Jí'ān riverside into this dazzling new waterfront park? Miragelike, the park features stone fountains, landscaped gardens, cobbled walkways, carp pools, statues and riverside decks where you can view North Korea across the Yālù River. At night the stylish modern apartments surrounding the park light their rooftops, while a small lotus pond opens out to a wooden junk for visitors to row themselves out to. It's all terribly romantic – all the more so because completely unexpected.
The centrepiece of the park is the very sleek looking Jí'ān Museum , sporting a brown stone base and a glass top with…
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Jiāngjūnfén (General's Tomb)
One of the largest pyramid-like structures in the region, the 12m-tall Jiāngjūnfén was built during the 4th century for a Koguryo ruler; a smaller tomb 100m nearby on the same site is the resting place of a family member. The site is set among the hills 4km northeast of town.
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Hǎotàiwáng Stele
Inscribed with 1775 Chinese characters, the Hǎotàiwáng Stele, a 6m-tall stone slab that dates to AD 415, records the accomplishments of Koguryo king Tan De (AD 374–412), known as Hǎotàiwáng. Tan De's tomb (labelled 'Tàiwáng Tomb') is on the same site, and you can enter and see the stone burial slabs.
The stele and tomb are quite close to Jiāngjūnfén.
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Giant Cairns
Down on the plains, on a large shelf above the river is Jí'ān's largest collection of giant stone cairns. Erected after the destruction of the city, the group is so far unaffected by tourists or tourism infrastructure. It's another beautiful area and the sight of these massive rock piles in fields of Spanish needle (bidens pilosa) is probably the most photogenic in all Jí'ān.
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Cemetery of Noblemen at Yushan
In this small gated park the stone crypts of various noblemen are open for visitors, though the only one you could actually enter at the time of writing was Tomb No 5 (wait for the guard to take you). It's a creepy descent underground into the chilly stone chamber, but as your eyes adjust to the light there are some intriguing wall paintings to behold.
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