Things to do in Sūzhōu
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Bookworm
Beijing's Bookworm has wormed its way down to Sūzhōu, although the selection isn't as good as Beijing's. The service could be a little quicker but the food is crowd pleasers (lots of Western options) and the beer is cold and includes Tsingtao (Y15) and Erdinger (Y45), as well as coffee (from Y10). There are occasional events and books you can borrow or buy. Just off Shiquan Jie.
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Garden of the Master of the Nets
From March to November, music performances are held nightly from 7.30pm to 9.30pm for tourist groups at this garden. Don't expect anything too authentic.
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Kūnqǔ Opera Museum
Puts on occasional performances of kūnqǔ. At the time of publication, there were shūoshū (说书, storytelling, including tea Y20) sessions.
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Old Streets (Píngjiāng Lù & Shàngtáng Jīe)
While most of the canals in the city have been sealed and paved into roads, there are two outstanding areas which give visitors a clue to Suzhou's 'Venice of the East' moniker. On the eastern side of the city, Píngjiāng Lù (平江路) is undoubtedly the prettier and more popular of the two. This pedestrian road (watch out for electric bikes though!) is set alongside a canal. Whitewashed local houses and trendy cafes selling overpriced lattes sit comfortably side-by-side – locals wring their dirty mops into the canal and are completely oblivious to the hordes of tourist jostling to get their National Geographic–worthy snapshots. Had enough of makeover studios and…
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Píngtán Museum
Better shows than at 'Garden of the Master of the Nets' are performed here at 1.30pm daily. Tickets on sale at noon.
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Pingvon
A cute little teahouse perched beside one of Sūzhōu's most popular canalside streets. Pingvon serves up excellent dumplings and delicate little morsels in baskets and on small plates. Try the green tea Buddha biscuit and pan-fried dumplings.
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Xīshèngyuán
Crowds pay and gather near the entrance to wait for the steaming fresh xǐaolóng bāo (小龙包; soup dumplings; Y6) to come out of the kitchen. If you don't want to jostle, grab a seat and order several other great dishes including assorted húntūn (馄饨; dumplings; Y6 to Y10).
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Yàkèxī
The Uighur kitsch atmosphere is entertaining and the Xīnjiāng staples – lamb kebabs (Y2.50), hot and spicy lamb soup (Y16) and nang bread (Y3) – all tasty. Round it off with a bottle of SinKiang beer (Y10) or a sour milk drink (Y8) and dream of Kashgar. No time to sit down? The lamb kebabs are grilled just outside.
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Zhūhóngxìng Miànguǎn
Popular with locals, this eatery, with several branches across town, has a long history and wholesome, filling noodles – try the xiānglà páigǔmiàn (香辣排骨面; salty pork and noodles; Y15) or the scrummy cōngyóu xiānggūmiàn (葱油香菇面, onion oil and mushroom noodles, Y10). Note: there's no English menu.
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Suzhou Food Centre
For sweets, cookies, snacks and teas, try this traditional food store at the entrance to Guanqian Jie.
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Xīnhuá Bookshop
Sells a variety of English- and Chinese-language maps. Stodgy English novels on the 4th floor.
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Confucian Temple
The main building of this former Confucian Temple is currently under renovation and should look stunning when complete. Visitors are still able to enter the compound and should look out for some fabulous stelae carved during the Southern Song dynasty (1137–1279). One features a map of old Sūzhōu – it details the canal system (much of which is now paved over and blocked), old roads and the city walls dating to 1229. Surprisingly, the whole city grid is relatively unchanged from 800 years ago. There's also an astronomy stelae from 1190 – one of the oldest astronomy charts in the world.
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Music shows
Music shows are performed nightly for tourist groups at the Garden of the Master of the Nets .Don't expect anything too authentic.
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Shǔxiāng Guǎn
Tea house by day, quiet bar by night, this place sometimes has free performances of píngtán during the afternoons.
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Suzhou Antique & Curio Store
You can find silk embroidery, ceramics, fans and other traditional crafts in this government run store. Bargaining isn't an option here.
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Dōngwú Sīchóu Shāngdiàn
This is attached to a silk factory and has clothes, material and bedding for sale. You can find some lovely items here and staff is open to bargaining.
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night market
Silk embroidery, ceramics, fans and other traditional crafts can be found in the lively night market near Shi Lu, which also sells food, clothing and all kinds of trinkets.
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West Street Bar
This three-storey bar is crammed full of Chinese and European antiques. With its homey ambience, eclectic crowd and friendly management, it's a great place to relax with a beer.
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Déyuè Lóu
Across the way from Zhūhóngxìng Miànguǎn, this place has been around since the Ming dynasty, with a menu featuring over 300 items and an emphasis on freshwater fish. It's a popular stop for tour groups and for large wedding parties, and feels a little over the top at times.
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7&7
This large, cafeteria-style restaurant near the park in the Guanqian Jie pedestrian area has a line up of stir-fries, noodle dishes and steamed breads to choose from, all at rock-bottom prices.
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Nanmu Guanyin Hall
Off to the side of the North Temple Pagoda is Nanmu Guanyin Hall , which was rebuilt in the Ming dynasty with some features imported from elsewhere. There's a teahouse with a small garden out the back.
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Lions’ Grove
The one-hectare Lions’ Grove garden, constructed in 1350 by the monk Tian Ru, is famed for its strangely shaped rocks, meant to resemble lions, protectors of the Buddhist faith.
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Sānqīng Diàn
Sānqīng Diàn is supported by 60 pillars and capped by a double roof with upturned eaves. It dates from 1181 and is the only surviving example of Song architecture in Sūzhōu.
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Bǎochén Fàndiàn
If you’re fed up with all the restaurants around here closing before you’re even hungry, this one’s open all night. It specialises in dishes from Yúnnán province. English menu.
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Jane's Pub
With Guinness on tap (per pint Y55), Chimay and Duvel for more discerning palates, obligatory foreign banknotes stapled to the bar, pool and the occasional live singer (from 9pm), Jane's musters enough appeal for those that like an old-fashioned rough and tumble bar.
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