Wander along Fènghuáng's restored salmon-pink city wall with its defensive aspect along the southern bank of the Tuó River. Halfway along its length, the North Gate Tower (北门城楼; Běimén Chénglóu) is in a tragic state of neglect, downtrodden and scratched with names, but it remains a magnificent structure. While perusing this area, look up at the distinctive roof ridges on buildings above – many adorned with carvings of creatures and fish – which are far better preserved than much at ground level.