Getting there & away
At the time of writing, reaching Yúmùzhài was tricky, but not impossible. The nearest airport is at Ēnshī. Take a slow sleeper bus through the hills from Yíchāng to Lìchuān (Yíchāng to Lìchuān Y100, 10 hours, 6.30pm; Lìchuān to Yíchāng Y110, 12 hours, 5pm) in the weightily named Enshi Tujia and Miao Minority Autonomous Prefecture (; Ēnshī Tǔjiāzú Miáozú Zìzhìzhōu). Buses to Lìchuān also run from Wànzhōu (Y20, two hours) and Fèngjié (Y35, three hours) in Chóngqìng, a direction which allows for a journey through the Three Gorges by hydrofoil from Yíchāng to either Fèngjié or Wànzhōu, for the bus connection to Lìchuān. From Lìchuān you will have to negotiate a taxi or four-wheel drive (around Y150 to Y200 return) to take you to Yúmùzhài, around 60km away from Lìchuān.
Avoid travel to Yúmùzhài during wet weather (eg during spring) as drivers will be loathe to traverse the road if it is muddy and you could be left high and dry. Public buses from Lìchuān only go as far as Móudào (; Y15), but Yúmùzhài is a further 18km away; you could be stuck if unable to find a car from Móudào, so it could be preferable to arrange a car from Lìchuān.