Tung Chung

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    bus: 3M from Mui Wo, 11 from Tai O, 23 from Ngong Ping

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Lonely Planet review

In recent years change has come to Tung Chung, on Lantau's northern coast, at a pace that can only happen in Hong Kong. This previously all-but-inaccessible farming region, with the small village of Tung Chung at its centre, has seen Chek Lap Kok, the mountain across Tung Chung Bay, flattened to build Hong Kong's international airport and a New Town served by the MTR rise up.

As part of the territory's plans to solve the housing crisis, Tung Chung New Town has now become a 760-hectare residential estate. The targeted population of Tung Chung and the neighbouring New Town of Tai Ho is an astonishing 330,000 by 2012.

These developments and transportation improvements have put an end to Tung Chung as a peaceful and secluded spot. But efforts have been made to protect Tung Chung Old Village. Buildings may rise no higher than three storeys and each floor can be no larger than 70 sq metres.

Annals record a settlement at Tung Chung as early as the Ming dynasty. There are several Buddhist establishments in the upper reaches of the valley, but the main attraction here is Tung Chung Fort (Tung Chung Rd; admission free; ; - Wed-Mon), which dates back to 1832, when Chinese troops were garrisoned on Lantau.