Modern French restaurants in Hong Kong
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A
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon
Indulge your taste for variety at the Chef of the Century’s red-and-black workshop. Nestled in the bottomless bread basket is an assortment of three-bite wonders; the tapas ($250 to $400) are out of this world, especially the foie gras mini-burgers; and there’s a 70-page wine list. Despite its two Michelin stars, L’Atelier insists this is not haute cuisine. It’s not untrue – it serves breakfast ($280).
reviewed
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B
Caprice
In an age when celebrity chefs compete to design the most inscrutable menu, the one here (set dinner from $1280) is capriciously straightforward. Yet comprehensibility hasn’t hurt our enjoyment of dishes such as beef flank with cauliflower gratin in red-wine sauce. The artisanal cheeses, delivered weekly from France, are arguably Hong Kong’s best. Illuminated floors add a funky touch to the opulent decor.
reviewed
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C
Pierre
The godfather of fusion, Pierre Gagnaire, flaunts his revolutionary cuisine in the city that embodies the concept. The menu is an edgy and provocative affair; dessert might be a caramelised rocket salad – and it works. Dithering gourmands should try the tasting menu ($1488). The decor, with portholes and chandelier, reminds one of a cruise liner, especially when the harbour view is added.
reviewed
