Luòyáng

Introducing Luòyáng

Capital of 13 dynasties until the Northern Song dynasty moved its capital to Kāifēng in the 10th century, Luòyáng is one of China’s true ancient dynastic cities. Today it’s hard to imagine that Luòyáng was once the centre of the Chinese universe, the Eastern Capital of the great Tang dynasty and home to over 1300 Buddhist temples. The heart of the magnificent Sui dynasty palace complex was centred on the point where today’s Zhongzhou Lu and Dingding Lu intersect in a frenzy of honking traffic. Charted on maps of town, the Sui and Tang dynasty walls were arranged in an imposing rectangle north and south of the Luo River.

Luòyáng endured a sacking in the 12th century by Juchen invaders from which it never quite recovered. For centuries the city languished with only memories of greatness, its population dwindling to a mere 20, 000 inhabitants by the 1920s. Despite modern overlays, the city remains suspended between eras: travellers may still see ducks wandering the pavements around the train station while sex toy shops and lurid, pink-lit foot-massage parlours infest the north end of Jinguyuan Lu.

Its star long faded, Luòyáng now resembles other fume-laden modern towns in China, with choking air pollution, roaring streets, ample concrete and scant evidence of a once-great citadel.

The surviving signature sight is undoubtedly the splendid Longmen Caves outside town but an annual highlight is the Peony Festival, centred on Wangcheng Park; Wángchéng Gōngyuán), held from 15 to 25 April, when the city is flooded with floral aficionados.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009