Things to do in Hāěrbīn
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Japanese Germ Warfare Experimental Base
There are museums highlighting Japanese wartime atrocities all over Dongbei, but this is one is actually set in the notorious Japanese Germ Warfare Experimental Base – 731 Division used to inflict some of those atrocities. Between 1939 and 1945, Chinese prisoners of war and civilians were frozen alive, subjected to vivisection or infected with bubonic plague, syphilis and other virulent diseases. Three to four thousand people died here in the most gruesome fashion, including Russians, Koreans, Mongolians and, it is believed, a few American airmen.
The main building of the base is now a museum complete with photos, sculptures and exhibits of the equipment used by the…
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Dàolǐqū
The cobblestone street of Zhongyang Dajie is the most obvious legacy of Russia's involvement with Hā'ěrbīn. Now a pedestrian- only zone, the street, and those nearby, are lined with buildings that date back to the early 20th century. Some are imposing, others distinctly dilapidated, but the mix of architectural styles is fascinating.
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Siberian Tiger Park
At the Siberian Tiger Park, visitors get the chance to see one of the world's rarest animals (and largest felines) close-up. This breeding centre and urban park is not the most edifying spectacle, however, with the tigers fenced in and visitors, who tour safari-style in buses, encouraged to buy (live!) chickens (Y100), ducks and even cows (Y1500) to throw to the animals. The feeding takes place during the ride around the park, so if you don't think you can handle the spectacle (of cheering locals as much as tigers mauling their prey), consider not taking the ride.
The park is located roughly 15km north of the city. From Zhongyang Dajie walk down Hongzhuan Jie five minutes…
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Hāěrbīn New Synagogue
In the 1920s the Hāěrbīn New Synagogue was the centre of the city's small but influential Jewish community, most of whom had emigrated east from Russia over the preceding 20 years. The building was converted to a museum in 2004. The 2nd and 3rd floors house interesting exhibits about the history and cultural life of Hāěrbīn's Jews in the early 20th century; the 1st floor is an (unrelated) architecture exhibition about construction projects under way in the city, including the new Hāěrbīn subway system.
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Seven-Tiered Buddhist Pagoda
Hēilóngjiāng's largest temple complex, the Seven-Tiered Buddhist Pagoda was built in 1924 and is dominated by a giant statue of the Buddha. Tickets include admission to the Temple of Bliss next door.
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Lǎo Chāng Chūnbǐng
A popular local speciality, chūnbǐng (春饼) are flat tortilla-like pancakes. Order a variety of fillings to slather on your pancake; then roll it up and eat. One favourite is the spicy-tangy xiāng là ròu sī (香辣肉丝), pork with coriander and dried hot pepper.
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Church of St Sophia
The red-brick Russian Orthodox Church of St Sophia, with its distinctive green 'onion' dome, is Hā'ěrbīn's most famous landmark while the surrounding square a prime spot to watch the crowds. Built in 1907, the church is now home to the Hā'ěrbīn Architecture Arts Centre, which displays charming black-and-white photographs of Hā'ěrbīn from the early 1900s. It's interesting to note that the captions display a very positive attitude towards the foreign influence on the city.
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Heilongjiang Provincial Museum
The rather musty Heilongjiang Provincial Museum may appeal to the archaeologically inclined, with displays showcasing huge dinosaur skeletons and other finds from digs around the province. Also on view is fish-skin clothing worn by the Hezhen minority. On the museum's lower level is the Sea World aquarium (Y40).
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Běiběi Hànbīng Díshìgāo
Underground entertainment takes on a new meaning at this disco/roller-skating rink that is literally underground. It's in the underground shopping centre opposite the train station; take the stairs down from the southwest corner of Hongjun Jie. Admission includes skate hire, but bring your own earplugs.
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Boat Tour
Buy a ticket for a boat tour from one of the government-run ticket vendors (guóyíng chuánpiào), whose dock is directly north of the Flood Control Monument. Private boat operators, whose touts aggressively seek out customers charge more.
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Songhua River
In winter, head to the Songhua River for ice-skating, ice hockey, tobogganing and even ice sailing. Equipment for these sports can be hired from vendors along the riverbank. Slightly madder folk astound onlookers by swimming in gaps in the ice.
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Cafe Russia 1914
Step back in time at this tranquil, ivy-covered teahouse-cum-restaurant and cafe. Black-and-white photos illustrating Hā'ěrbīn's Russian past line the walls, while the old school furniture and fireplace evoke a different era. The food is substantial Russian fare, such as borscht and piroshki (cabbage, potato and meat puffs). It serves Russian vodka, too.
The restaurant is off Zhongyang Dajie in a little courtyard. Look for the sign reading 'Russian Food and Tea'.
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Stalin Park
Locals and visitors alike congregate year-round in Stalin Park. The tree-lined promenade, dotted with statues, playgrounds and cafes, runs along a 42km-long embankment that was built to curb the unruly Sōnghuā River. The odd Flood Control Monument (防洪胜利纪念塔; Fánghóng Shènglì Jìniàntǎ), from 1958, commemorates the thousands of people who died in years past when the river overflowed its banks.
During summer, it's a spot to sample snacks and sip a beer under the trees. In winter, the Sōnghuā River becomes the local sports centre, with ice skating, ice hockey and ice sailing all options. You can hire the gear you'll need from vendors along the…
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Food Market
Outside Mǎdié'ěr Bīnguǎn, a busy snack shop serves kebabs, dumplings and ice cream; nearby, a food market has stalls offering buns, cookies, sausages, fruits and sweets.
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Temple of Bliss
The active Buddhist community in residence gives this temple a genuine religious atmosphere despite the ticket sales. Among the many large statues here include Milefo (Maitreya), the Buddha yet-to-come, whose arrival will bring paradise on earth.
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Sun Island Park
Across the river from Stalin Park is Sun Island Park, a 38-sq-km recreational zone with landscaped gardens, miniforests, a 'water world', a Russian Style Town, and various small galleries and museums. It's a pleasant place to walk around, though as usual you need to pay extra to get into many areas.
You can boat across (Y10 return) from the dock directly north of the Flood Control Monument or catch the nearby cable car.
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Dōngfāng Jiǎozi Wáng
Dàolǐqū District (51 Zhongyang Dajie); train station area (72 Hongjun Jie) It's not just the cheap jiǎozi (饺子; dumplings) that are good at this always busy chain: there are plenty of tasty vegie dishes, too, and excellent fresh fruit drinks. The Hongjun Jie branch is a 10-minute walk southeast of the train station, next to the Overseas Chinese Hotel down the alley. Both branches have English menus if you can get the staff to understand you want one.
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Cafe de Eife French Bakery
Take a break in this tiny corner café stocked with English-language newspapers and international magazines. The Parisian-style pastries go well with espresso.
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Flood Control Monument
The odd Flood Control Monument, built in 1958, commemorates the thousands of people who died in years past when the river overflowed its banks.
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Confucius Temple
This peaceful and little-visited temple was built in 1929 and is said to be the largest Confucian temple in northeastern China. Restoration work was ongoing at the time of writing.
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Hēilóngjiāng Science & Technology Museum
This children's museum is west of Sun Island Park and features excellent hands-on displays highlighting the principles of aviation, acoustics, transportation, energy and aeronautics. The museum can be reached either by taxi or by following the road west about 4km after you get off the boat to the island.
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Hongbo Century Square
Below Dongdazhi Jie, the Hongbo Century Square shopping complex extends for blocks underground.
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Dongdazhi Jie
Dongdazhi Jie is lined with department stores, stylish boutiques and souvenir shops.
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Cable Car
You can also take a cable car to Sun Island Park from the end of Tongjiang Jie.
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Xinhua Bookshop
Has a small selection of English-language books, mostly 19th-century novels.
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