Things to do in Zhèngdìng
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Kāiyuán Temple
South on Yanzhao Nandajie this temple originally dates from AD 540 but was destroyed in 1966, the first year of the Cultural Revolution. Little remains apart from some leftover good vibes (it's a popular spot for qì gōng and taichi practitioners), the Bell Tower and the drawcard dirt-brown Xumi Pagoda, a well-preserved and unfussy early-Tang-dynasty brickwork, nine-eaved structure, topped with a spire. Its round arched doors and carved stone doorway are particularly attractive, as are the carved figures on the base.
Also displayed is a colossal stone bìxì statue – China's largest – near the entrance, with a vast chunk of its left flank missing and its head propped up o…
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Dafo Temple
Zhèngdìng’s most famous monastery is Longxing Temple ( 隆兴寺; Lóngxìng Sì), more popularly known as Dafo Temple or Big Buddha Temple, which is located in the east of town. The standout hall is the vast Pavilion of Great Mercy ( 大悲阁; Dàbēi Gé), where a bronze 21.3m colossus of Guanyin rises, cast in AD 971 and sporting a third eye.
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Línjì Temple
Normally Y5 to access but free at the time of writing (and attracting scads of beggars in various stages of disfiguration), this active monastery, around 700m southeast of Kāiyuán Temple, is notable for its tall, elegant, carved brick Chénglíng Pagoda (澄灵塔; also called the Green Pagoda), topped with an elaborate lotus plinth plus ball and spire. The main hall behind has a large gilt effigy of Sakyamuni and 18 golden luóhàn. At the rear of the hall is Puxian astride an elephant, Wenshu on a lion and a figure of Guanyin. In the Tang dynasty, the temple was home to one of Chan (Zen) Buddhism's most eccentric and important teachers, Linji Yixuan, who penned the no…
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Tiānníng Temple
About five minutes west (right as you exit) of Dàfó Temple are the remains of this temple, whose 41m-high Tang-dynasty Lofty Pagoda (凌霄塔; Língxiāo Tǎ) – also called Mùtǎ or Wooden Pagoda – originally dates from AD 779; it was later restored in 1045. The octagonal, nine-eaved and spire-topped pagoda is in fine condition and typical of Tang brickwork pagodas. Shut at the time of writing, you can usually clamber up inside and torches are provided (deposit Y10), but mind your head and the steep stairs. The views from the top are not great, as the windows are small.
Further west on Zhongshan Xilu from Tiānníng Temple, past the intersection with Yanzhao Nandajie…
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Changle Gate
At the southern end of the Yanzhao Dajie is Changle Gate, also known as Nanchengmen or South Gate. You can climb the gate, where there is a small exhibition. Extending away from the gate to the east and west are the dilapidated remains of the city wall, stripped of its trees and sprouting grass.
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Guǎnghuì Temple
Nothing remains of this temple further south, except its unusual Indian-style pagoda decorated with lions, elephants, sea creatures, púsà (Bodhisattvas; those worthy of nirvana who remain on earth to help others attain enlightenment) and other figures (some missing). With a brick base and four doors, the pagoda has stone-carved upper storeys and a brickwork cap. You can climb to the top.
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Lóngxīng Temple
Of Zhèngdìng's temple tribe, the most notable is this temple, more popularly known as Dàfó Temple (大佛寺; Dàfó Sì) or 'Big Buddha Temple', in the east of town.
The time-worn bridge out front constitutes a handsome historical prelude. Dating way back to AD 586, the temple has been much restored and stands divided from its spirit wall by Zhongshan Donglu. Halls such as the Hall of Sakyamuni's Six Teachers await an entire rebuild from the soles up, but still attract a small gathering of glinting Guanyin statues.
You are greeted in the first hall by the jovial Milefo, chubby enough that temple caretakers have pluralised him – he's now the 'Monks with a Bag'. The four…
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City Walls
Part of Zhèngdìng's main street (Yanzhao Dajie) has been restored and is now a pleasant stretch of traditional Chinese roofing, brickwork and willows called the Zhèngdìng Historical Culture Street (正定历史文化街; Zhèngdìng Lìshǐ Wénhuà Jiē). At the southern end of the street is Chánglè Gate, also known as Nánchéngmén or South Gate. The original wall (which dates back to the Northern Zhou) was made up of an outer wall (yuèchéng) and an inner wall (nèichéng), with enceintes (wèngchéng), and had a total length of 24km. You can climb onto Chánglè Gate, where there is a small exhibition. Extending away from the gate to the east and west are the di…
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