Wǔzhǐshān (Tōngshí)

Introducing Wǔzhǐshān (Tōngshí)

Up in the hills in the centre of Hǎinán, Wǔzhǐshān is one of the most interesting and genuine cities on the island. Wǔzhǐshān was until recently called Tōngzhá or Tōngshí, but its name was changed to that of a famous nearby mountain, Wǔzhǐ Shān. It is China’s smallest city, being given such status when it became the capital of the Li and Miao Autonomous Prefecture back in the ’80s. The idea was that the region would be self-governing, giving the marginalised Li and Miao communities an amount of control over themselves.

That situation, however, proved short-lived after newly empowered local politicians were done for corruption and money wasting on a scale remarkable even by Chinese standards. For evidence, look to the imposing and overly grand main building of Qióngzhōu University, overlooking the city, which was going to be the region’s legislative assembly.

Bona fide sights are few. The National Museum of Hainan (Mínzú Bówùguǎn; 8862 2336; admission Y30; 8am-5.30pm), displaying a good range of Li and Miao artefacts plus the mandatory revolutionary propaganda, is the most notable, though the simple or nonexistent English labels can be frustrating.

But in many ways this lack of ‘things to do’ is central to Wǔzhǐshān’s charm. It’s the sort of laid-back place where you can happily spend a couple of days, getting to know some of the locals, drinking coffee and visiting surrounding villages.

If you don’t speak Mandarin, you could consider employing an English student from the university. The English department is full of students keen to practice their English, and they might also be willing to guide you around the Wǔzhǐshān hotspots, including the lively Jīa Jīa Shāo Kǎo Yuān area in the evenings, and the market and Jiefang Lu. It’s best to arrange this the afternoon before you head out, and to clarify what if any payment will be involved - at the very least you should pay for their costs, such as transport, food and drink.

Last updated: Feb 17, 2009