Things to do in Xiàmén
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Heavenly King Hall
Entering the temple through Heavenly King Hall you are met by the tub-bellied Milefo (Laughing Buddha), flanked by four heavenly kings. The classical Chinese inscription reads: 'When entering, regard Buddha and afterwards pay your respects to the four kings of heaven'.
Behind Milefo is Wei Tuo, protector of Buddhist monasteries, who safeguards Buddhist doctrine and relics. He holds a stick that points to the ground, indicating that the temple is rich and can provide visiting monks with board and lodging (if the stick is held horizontally it means the temple is poor and is a polite way of saying 'find somewhere else to stay').
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Húlǐ Shān Fortress
Across Daxue Lu, south of the university, is this gigantic German gun artillery built in 1893. You can rent binoculars to peer over the water to the Taiwanese-occupied island of Jīnmén (金门), formerly known as Quemoy, claimed by both mainland China and Taiwan. Boats (Y106 to Y126) do circuits of Jīnmén from the passenger ferry terminaloff Lujiang Lu.
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Nánpǔtuó Temple
On the southern side of Xiàmén, this Buddhist temple was originally built over a millennium ago but has been repeatedly destroyed and rebuilt. Its latest incarnation dates to the early 20th century, and today it's an active and busy temple with chanting monks and worshippers lighting incense.
The temple is fronted by a lovely lotus-flower-filled lake. In front of the courtyard is the twin-eaved Big Treasure Hall (Dàxióng Bǎodiàn), presided over by a trinity of Buddhas representing his past, present and future forms. Behind rises the eight-sided Hall of Great Compassion (Dàbēi Diàn), in which stands a golden 1000-armed statue of Guanyin, facing the four directions.
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Xiàmén University
Next to Nánpǔtuó Temple and established with overseas Chinese funds, the university has well- maintained grounds featuring an attractive lake. It's a good place for a pleasant, shady stroll. The campus entrance is next to the stop for bus 1.
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Sundance Kid
Xiàmén also has an assortment of restaurants serving Western-style dishes. One of the more popular places is Sundance Kid, which dishes up an eclectic assortment of dishes, including pizzas, seafood and roasted mutton with vegetables. There's also free internet and live entertainment on the weekends.
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Great Compassion Hall
The Great Compassion Hall contains four statues of Guanyin (the Goddess of Mercy). Worshippers cast divining sticks at the feet of the statues to seek heavenly guidance.
The temple has an excellent vegetarian restaurant in a shaded courtyard where you can dine in the company of resident monks.
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Gōngdé Sùcàiguǎn
Near the university, good, cheap, attractive restaurants line Siming Nanlu and Yanwu Jie. A decent vegetarian restaurant is Gōngdé Sùcàiguǎn . Try the monks' vegetables (罗汉斋; luóhàn zhāi).
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Overseas Chinese Museum
A fascinating and ambitious celebration of China's communities abroad, with models, street scenes, photos and props. Close to the university.
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Great Heroic Treasure Hall
In front of the courtyard is the Great Heroic Treasure Hall, a two-storey building containing three Buddhas that represent Buddha in his past, present and future lives.
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Dàfāng Sùcàiguǎn
This vegetarian restaurant near Nánpǔtuó Temple has gone upmarket. Formerly the domain of a budget-conscious crowd, the temple has priced them out with a very wide range of vegetarian dishes including hotpots and mock meat. Try the tiěbǎn hēijiāo niúpái (铁板黑椒牛排; vegetable 'beef' strips with pepper).
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World Trade Centre
Next to the train station, there is an excellent open-air food court on the 5th floor, with a variety of small fast-food restaurants to choose from.
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Huángzéhé Peanut Soup Shop
Very popular restaurant with basic service and seating, famed for its delectably sweet huāshēng tāng (花生汤; peanut soup; Y2) and popular snacks including zhūròu chuàn (猪肉串; pork kebabs; Y3) and xiǎolóngbāo (小笼包; Shanghai dumplings; Y3 for four). You need to purchase coupons that you hand over when you order food.
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Lucky Full City Seafood
You'll have to either be really lucky (or wait at least 30 minutes) for a table at this popular dim sum restaurant. You will, however, leave really full after digging into roast meats, chār shāo bāo and shāo mài; English and picture menu available. Catch a taxi here: the driver will know where it is.
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Food Hall, World Trade Centre
Head up to the 5th floor for this brash, bright and lively food hall crammed with Asian flavours from Hong Kong to Korea and beyond, and sit down with a clay pot (Y15), lamb kebabs (Y2.50) or whatever takes your fancy. Pay with charge cards (Y10 to Y200), available at the kiosk. You can return cards when you leave. Located next to the long-distance bus station.
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Apple Travel
Pricey but can can help arrange tours around Xiàmén, Gǔlàng Yǔ and to the Hakka tǔlóu. Also organises English-speaking guides.
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