Ancient Observatory

Lonely Planet review

Star-gazing may well be on the back foot in today's Běijīng - it would take a supernova to penetrate the haze that frequently blankets the nocturnal sky - but the Chinese capital has a sparkling history of astronomical observation. The observatory is the only surviving example of several constructed during the Jin, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties - was built between 1437 and 1446 to facilitate both astrological predictions and seafaring navigation.

Now mounted on the battlements of a watchtower lying along the line of the old Ming City Wall - the observatory dates back to Kublai Khan's days when it lay north of the present site. Khan - like later Ming and Qing emperors - relied heavily on astrologers to plan military endeavours.

At ground level is a pleasant courtyard - perfect for parking yourself on a bench and recharging. At the rear is an attractive garden with grass, sundials and an armillary sphere.

Climb the steps to the roof and see an array of Jesuit-designed astronomical instruments, embellished with sculptured bronze dragons and other Chinese flourishes - a unique mix of East and West.

During the Boxer Rebellion, the instruments disappeared into the hands of the French and Germans. Some were returned in 1902, and others were returned after WWI, under the provisions of the Treaty of Versailles (1919).