Hands down the best place to shop for gōngyì (crafts) and gǔwán (antiques) in Běijīng is Pānjiāyuán (aka the Dirt Market or the Sunday Market). The market only takes place on weekends and sprawls from calligraphy, Cultural Revolution memorabilia and cigarette-ad posters to Buddha heads, ceramics, Tibetan carpets and beyond. Up to 50,000 visitors scope for treasures here: if you want to join them, early Sunday morning is the best time. Also, ignore the 'don't pay more than half'' rule here – some vendors may start at 10 times the real price, so aim low. Make a few rounds at Pānjiāyuán before forking out for anything, to compare prices and weigh it all up. It's off Dongsanhuan Nanlu (Third Ring Rd); to get there take the subway to Jìnsōng, then take bus 28.