Hotel Côté Cour Sl

With a calm, serene atmosphere and a lovely magnolia courtyard, this 14-room hútòng hotel is one of the most charming places to rest your head in town. Like all courtyard hotels, rooms are petite, but this is offset by a spacious rooftop terrace and the central location is both tranquil and ‘old Peking’. Perhaps aiming for a members-only exclusive look, there’s no sign: it’s just beyond Dengcao Hutong ( 灯草胡同 ); look out for the colourful, traditional Chinese doorway on your right as you amble east. There’s no bell, just knock at the door.