Things to do in Viña Del Mar
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Africa
With the giant model elephants trampling on the roof, Africa's facade wins no prize for subtlety. Nor does its food for that matter, all hearty Chilean staples, but it's fun and worth a trip for the kitsch novelty value.
reviewed
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Entremasas
Prawn and mushroom in a cheese-cilantro sauce; ground beef and bacon seasoned with merquén; chorizo and goat’s cheese…Who knew empanadas got this interesting?
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Parque Quinta Vergara
Nowhere is Viña’s nickname of ‘the garden city’ better justified than at the magnificently landscaped Parque Quinta Vergara; the entrance is on Errázuriz at the south end of Libertad. It once belonged to one of the city’s most illustrious families, the Alvares-Vergaras, but when they fell on hard times they sold it to the city council. Their residence was the Venetian neo-Gothic–style Palacio Vergara, which houses the Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes.
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Museo de Arqueología e Historia Francisco Fonck
The original moai (Easter Island statues) standing guard outside the Museo de Arqueología e Historia Francisco Fonck are just a teaser of the beautifully displayed archaeological finds from Easter Island within, along with Mapuche silverwork and anthropomorphic Moche ceramics. Upstairs are old-school insect cases and a lively explanation of how head shrinking works (finished examples are included).
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Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes
Housed in the neo-Gothic–style Palacio Vergara, the Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes has interesting collection of 17th- to 19th-century European and Chilean art that includes works by Murillo, Modigliani, Rubens and Sorolla y Bastida. Major concerts and the celebrated Festival Internacional de la Canción are held in the striking concrete amphitheater in the grounds.
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Quinta Vergara
Once the residence of the prosperous Alvares-Vergara family and now a public park, the grounds of the magnificently landscaped Parque Quinta Vergara contain the Venetian-style Palacio Vergara, which dates from 1908. This building houses the Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes, which has a reasonable collection of European and Chilean art.
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Enjoy del Mar
A sunset drink here should be on everyone’s Viña to-do list – there are panoramic views of the Pacific from its terrace above the mouth of the Marga Marga. The ice-cream bar includes kooky flavors such as pisco sour and Coca-Cola. You get cheaper food but lesser views from the branch along the waterfront, Enjoy Café on Av Perú.
reviewed
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Don Giacomo
Going strong since 1920, this wooden-furnished old joint has been shaken but not stirred by several earthquakes; now its floor vibrates to a salsa beat on several nights of the week. Alternatively, misspend your youth on the many pool tables. Inexpensive lunchtime specials are also available, although drinks are pricey.
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Otro Estilo
Spurred by a reader's letter ('my wife had homemade ravioli that sent her to the floor in ecstasy'), we were looking forward to a meal here. It didn't disappoint. Fusing an impressive range of international culinary influences, the food is excellent and the service is very personal. Call to reserve on weekends.
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Jardín Botánico Nacional
There are over 3000 plant species in the 61 hectares of parkland that comprise Chile’s Jardín Botánico Nacional. It’s 8km southeast of the city center; catch bus 203 from Viana east to the end of the line (CH$440), then cross the bridge and walk about 1km north up Camino El Olivar.
reviewed
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Jerusalem
This counter of Middle Eastern cuisine expertly dispenses falafels to take away or munch on the surrounding stools. Expect a bit of friendly banter with the owners, who like to practice their English - and watch out for the arak, a potent Middle Eastern shot that is also dished out here.
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Arena Bistro
Arena bridges the gap between the posh restaurants and fast-food chains around it: pizzas, sandwiches, empanadas and wraps fill the menu, but they’re made with interesting combinations of fresh ingredients. Later on, cocktails clutter the pale wood tables and the music gets turned up.
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Panzoni
One of the best-value eateries in central Viña, Panzoni’s uncomplicated Italian food and friendly service reel in the lunchtime diners. Pastas make up most of the offerings – the favorite filling is pork and plum.
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Castillo Wulff
Squat-looking Castillo Wulff hangs half over the sea: skip through the art exhibitions to the tower at the back, where you can peer through the thick glass floor at the rocks and waves below.
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Schawerma
Everything comes on flimsy plastic plates and there’s not so much as a straw between you and your drink bottle. Who cares? The shawarma here’s so damn tasty we’d eat it off the floor if we had to.
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Casino Municipal
Overlooking the beach on the north side of the Marga Marga, this local landmark is the place to squander your savings on slot machines, bingo, roulette and card games. Formal attire is encouraged.
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La Flor de Chile
For nearly 80 years Viñamarinos young and old have chewed the fat and downed their schops (draft beer) over the closely packed tables of this gloriously old-school bar.
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Anayak
Big, bright and with a long stretch of tables, its lunch menu is a little overpriced, but this place is good for coffee and cakes (go on, give in to the lemon meringue slice).
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Samoiedo
For half a century the old boys have been meeting at this traditional confitería (tearoom) for lunchtime feasts of steak and fries or well-stuffed sandwiches.
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Portal Álamos
The Portal Álamos, a downtown shopping arcade, has a string of samey schop-and-sandwich joints that fill the open-fronted 2nd floor.
reviewed
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Museo Palacio Rioja
The Museo Palacio Rioja is an elegant century-old mansion with lovely gardens, now a municipal museum. It also hosts movies and musical performances.
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Divino Pecado
The short but surprising menu at this Italian restaurant might include smoked salmon and wasabi pansotti or merquén fettuccini with lamb ragu.
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Barlovento
Hipster headquarters in Viña is this industrial-looking concrete-and-steel bar, which has a reputation for spot-on cocktails.
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Café Journal
Electronic music is the order of the evening at this boomingly popular club, which now has three heaving dance floors.
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Teatro Municipal
This grand building stages plays, chamber music concerts and arthouse movies.
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