La Sebastiana

Lonely Planet review

Pablo Neruda probably spent less time at La Sebastiana, his least-known and least-visited house, than at La Chascona or Isla Negra, but he made it a point to watch Valparaíso's annual New Year's fireworks from his lookout on Cerro Bellavista. The house is still very much in his style, however, with a madly eccentric layout, some beautiful knick-knacks and trinkets, and some lovely stained-glass windows.

It's the only one of his three houses that visitors can wander around at will. In addition to the usual assemblage of oddball artifacts within the house, the Fundación Neruda has built a Centro Cultural La Sebastiana alongside it, with rotating exhibitions, a café, a souvenir shop and a stained-glass workshop.

It's at least half an hour's steep walk to reach La Sebastiana from downtown. Alternatively, take Verde Mar bus 'O' or 'D' on Serrano near Plaza Sotomayor, or from the plaza at the top of Templeman, and disembark in the 6900 block of Av Alemania, a short walk from the house. Otherwise, take Ascensor Espiritu Santo (sometimes called Ascensor Bellavista) near Plaza Victoria and ask for directions. (Neruda's most famous house, with an extensive collection of maritime memorabilia, is at Isla Negra.)