Liquid paper graffiti covers the tabletops and windows at this tiny café, tucked away down a narrow passageway in El Plan. Forget about menus, there are two options here: chorrillana (a mountain of French fries under a blanket of fried pork, onions and egg) and desmechada (stewed beef) – one dish serves two. Folk singers serenade you into the wee hours on weekends.