Restaurants in Valparaíso
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Pasta e Vino
The word on Pasta e Vino – credited with starting Valpo’s gastro revival – has gone from ‘fabulous’ to ‘overrated’ and back to ‘fabulous’ again. Your prize for bagging a table (at the time of research, it was first-come, first-served) is watching the chefs make whatever the inventive pasta of the day is, and then eating it. Expect unusual combinations – bean with orange or duck with plum, for example.
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Casino Social J Cruz
Liquid paper graffiti covers the tabletops and windows at this tiny café, tucked away down a narrow passageway in El Plan. Forget about menus, there are two options here: chorrillana (a mountain of French fries under a blanket of fried pork, onions and egg) and desmechada (stewed beef) – one dish serves two. Folk singers serenade you into the wee hours on weekends.
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Vinilo
From bakers to butchers to effortlessly hip resto-bar: the mismatched tile floor tells the story of the many incarnations of this Cerro Alegre institution. Sandwiches and chocolate-and-raspberry cake seduce during the day. Later, quirky Chilean fare takes center stage. As the last plates are licked, the namesake vinyl gets turned up and things slips into bar mode.
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Le Filou de Montpellier
The three-course lunches at this cluttered bistro are worth staying on an extra day for – rabbit stew, beef bourguignon and sauce-laced fish are mainstays, but always, always leave room for whatever chocolate-based dessert is on the menu. There’s a posher branch up the hill at Lautaro Rosas 510.
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El Rincón de Pancho
The best-known of many seafood places in the main food market, Pancho does good-value fried-fish combos which come heaped with chips or salads. Have a coin or two ready for the troupe of aging troubadours who stagger through periodically to belt out the same two boleros.
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Pizzeria Napoletana
Affable owner Marco and his wife have their own secret recipe for pizza dough, gleaned from several years in Italy. And, although the pizzas are very good, it doesn't stop there. The gnocchi is one of many mouth-watering possibilities.
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Los Porteños
Something about this place is very fishy – in fact, everything is. Nets, buoys and anchors are draped across the flaking walls almost as lovingly as the battered and fried hake or sea bass is laid across your cheap glass plate.
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La Moneda de Oro
Dripping hunks of grilled meat is what this dark ’n’ dusty parrilla does best – what it lacks in frills it definitely makes up for in serving size. Football flags and port paraphernalia festoon the bottle-packed bar.
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Mora
Meat might be murder, but healthy lunchers are considerably less ethical about table-snitching at this earthy hole-in-the-wall. We can’t blame them: you get super-fresh salads, soups, sandwiches and cookies at great prices.
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Caruso
Locally caught rock- and shellfish get fresh, unpretentious treatment at Caruso. Start with the flaky filo seafood empanadas, then move on to the spicy Peruvian ceviche. Corn ice cream makes a teeth-stickingly good finish.
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El Sandwich Cubano
Barely bigger than Fidel’s handkerchief, this churns out son, salsa and over-stuffed sandwiches. Don’t get revolutionary: go for the classic ropa vieja (literally, ‘old clothes,’ a shredded beef sandwich).
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Color Café
On Cerro Concepción, this bright, cozy place prepares delicious vegetarian food, coffee, many different types of tea and lovely hot chocolate, all served in literary, arty surrounds.
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Bote Salvavidas
The seafood may be overpriced and the service may be lacking, but this is a great place for a close-up of a working port in action. Just get a coffee if you're not happy about the prices.
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Café Turri
It's a bit of a tourist trap, immediately after the exit of Ascensor Concepción, but the view from its terrace is lovely. The service can be bumbling, but hey, who's in a hurry?
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Allegretto
Big, deliciously crispy pizzas come with very creative toppings here. Things get rowdy round the upstairs Foosball table, which is surrounded by a mural of screaming fans.
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Nuevo Restaurant O'Higgins
Highly recommended by Valparaíso regulars. You too could fall for the charms of the pork ribs coated in white wine sauce, as well as the busy traditional ambience.
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Bar Inglés
This is a classic old favorite, with dark wood, white tablecloths and lots of atmosphere. Its decor shows the town's rich maritime tradition.
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Los Deportistas
No sign outside, no menu inside, but don’t worry: for 45 years, Valpo’s biggest feasts have been happening here. Watch and weep as the owner plonks down bowl after bowl of salads and cigar-sized French fries with your grilled salmon, tongue in walnut sauce or bloody steak. The thimbleful of local digestif Araucano seems an ironic gesture. To get here, catch a colectivo or bus from along Condell or Av Pedro Montt to San Roque or Ramaditas and ask to be let off at the ‘cancha del Barrio O’Higgins,’ a neighborhood soccer ground: Los Deportistas is round behind it.
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