Things to do in Temuco
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Cerro Ñielol
Cerro Ñielol is a hill that sits among some 90 hectares of native forest – a little forested oasis in the city. Chile’s national flower, the copihue (Lapageria rosea), grows here in abundance, flowering from March to July. Cerro Ñielol is also of historical importance, since it was here in 1881, at the tree-shaded site known as La Patagua, that Mapuche leaders ceded land to the colonists to found Temuco. Whether or not the actual papers were signed on the hill is up for debate. The park has picnic sites, a small lagoon, footpaths and an environmental information center. Take bus 1 from the centro to get to the entrance.
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Museo Regional de La Araucanía
The Museo Regional de La Araucanía is housed in a handsome frontier-style building dating from 1924, this regional museum has permanent exhibits recounting the history of the Araucanían peoples before, during and since the Spanish invasion. A display on Mapuche resistance to the Spaniards illustrates native weapons, but overlooks the Mapuche's effective guerrilla tactics. There's a good photographic display of early Temuco, including buildings destroyed in the earthquake of 1960.
Everything is well presented but labeled in Spanish only. Bus 9 runs from downtown to Av Alemania, but it's also reasonable walking distance.
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Fundación Chol-Chol
Unfortunately, the best and most responsible spot to buy Mapuche gear is 16km out of town. This nonprofit, Fair Trade organization works with 600 rural Mapuche women to offer top-quality weavings and textiles made entirely by hand. Throw rugs, wall hangings, bags, shawls – nothing is cheap, everything is simply gorgeous. To get here, take any bus towards the towns of Nueva Imperial, Carahue or Puerto Saavedra from the rural bus terminal and ask to be let off at the Fundación. If you can’t make it, a few of their wares are available at the gift shop in the museum.
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Museo Regional de la Araucanía
Housed in a handsome frontier-style building dating from 1924, this regional museum normally has permanent exhibits recounting the history of the Araucanían people before, during and since the Spanish invasion, but the majority of the exhibits, save the Mapuche pottery, have been closed for renovations for several years. It’s due to re-open in late 2008; look out for the massive Mapuche canoe, said to run the length of the entire museum.
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Feria Libre
Feria Libre is a colorful Mapuche produce market taking up several blocks along Barros Arana. Along the streets more practical wares are sold, while in the Feria itself vendors hawk everything from apples and artisan cheeses to honey and bags of merquén pepper. There is also a fair amount of vibrant hot peppers, though it’s unclear who buys them, as the cuisine in Chile is far from spicy.
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Tradiciones Zuny
Temuco’s best-kept secret is an underground local’s haunt specializing in the fresh, simple food of the countryside served out of an indigenous-themed home. There’s no menu – a typical meal here might include salad, beef cazuela (stew), pumpkin and quinoa, plus whole-wheat sopaipillas (traditional fried dough), bread and avocado juice (try it!), all for around CH$2000. You’re welcome.
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Luna China
This bi-level ‘Cantonese’ restaurant in an elegant residence on Alemania does a shockingly good Mongolian beef (not Cantonese) and other Chinese specialties such as Peking Duck (not Cantonese) amid Bruce Lee lookalike statuettes and typically beige decor. Someone actually returned to ask how everything was a few minutes after delivering the starter – a miracle in Sur Chico.
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Jairo's
Enjoy the sounds of the kitschy organ player as you dine at the city's top seafood restaurant. The intimate and formal dining room offers delectable dishes including ostiones a la crema (scallops in cream sauce) and a cocktail of erizos (sea urchins). Follow it up with the catch of the day in Jairo's sauce of shrimp, mushrooms, tarragon and chives.
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Gohan Sushi
This trendy sushi spot offers some innovative rolls (shrimp pil-pil, avocado and onions) and a soundtrack to get your hips shaking. The two Happy Hour pisco sours for CH$1700 make for a nice chaser. If you stay within these walls, Temuco suddenly starts to feel a little Temucool. Prices are discounted at lunch.
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Bahía Perú
Southern Chile is notorious for monotonous menus, but this Peruvian place offers up a taste of Chile's northern neighbors - with a good dose of spice. Pull up a chair and enjoy enormous platters of salmon or shrimp with veggies, or an authentic Peruvian ceviche with just a splash of Pernod.
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Pizzería Madonna
Temuco’s top choice for pizza and pasta is a bustling (especially on Sunday) checker-tableclothed spot full of character and classy waitresses. The specialty is Tricotta (ravioli three ways) and there’s a to-die-for tiramisu. Grab a pizza to go for a 20% discount.
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Casa de la Mujer Mapuche
Run by a cooperative of Mapuche women this sells a wide selection of traditional indigenous crafts, most notably textiles and ceramics. Profits benefit members of the cooperative which comprises nearly 400 local artisans.
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Caminos del Sur, tour agency
Caminos del Sur, tour agency organizes a variety of tours including ethnotourism with an emphasis on rural communities, such as Mapuche villages. Has offices at the bus terminal and the airport.
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Las Tranqueras
This somewhat exotic, white-tableclothed steakhouse serves goat, wild boar and rabbit, but nothing outsells the perfectly seasoned rib eye, a real treat. There’s a loaded wine list as well.
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Ñam Ñam
This student hang-out offers heaping sandwiches, draft beer and an upbeat atmosphere. It is one of the few places like this in all of Chile that provides a nonsmoking section.
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Cassìs
It’s worth hitting the mall for the Temuco installment of this Pucón mainstay that offers decadent chocolate and excellent coffee, served here in Patagonian ceramics.
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Taller Artesanal Universidad Católica
Sells quality silver reproductions of Mapuche jewelry, created by artisans and local students.
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El Turista
One of the better food stalls in the Feria Libre (local market).
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El Criollito
One of the better food stalls in the Feria Libre (local market).
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